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Phantasia Rock Climbing
Routes in Phantasia
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Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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St. Alfonso's T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Over the Flies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Little Dutch Boy T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Le Petite Bazaar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Creature Feature S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 1,146 ft | 349 m |
| GPS: |
37.84495, -83.64369 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 118,172 total · 522/month | |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006 | |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Phantasia is the Red River Gorge's original roadside sport crag. It has a nice spread of routes from the gumby classic testpiece Creature Feature to the insanely steep and insanely classic Twinkie.
Despite the rock being predominantly northeast facing the rock quality is surprisingly good.
Note: Daniel Boone National Forest provided RRGCC special permission for permadraws on Twinkie & Phantasia. This was an exception for these two specific routes. Permanent, fixed quickdraws are otherwise still prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Getting There
From Slade take highway 15 west for 1 mile. Turn right onto hwy 77. Continue on 77 through Nada Tunnel and across the Iron Bridge (Menifee Co. Line). Drive a bit further to a split in the road and bear left heading up the hill. When the rock becomes visible to the left side of the road look for pulloffs on the right. There is an obvious trail that will take you from the biggest pulloff to Creature Feature.
Parking area GPS: 37.8449, -83.6434
Parking area GPS: 37.8449, -83.6434
Classic Climbing Routes at Phantasia
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (6)
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