Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
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The latest guidebook to hit our state is Refuge Bouldering: Bouldering in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge by Ryan Sheldon. Released Jan 2021. Available at local gyms, or buy online at Sharp End Books to get the digital copy as well.
For all roped climbs in the Refuge and Quartz (as well as select Quartz boulders), see Oklahoma Rock A Climber's Guide by Tony Mayse. Available at most local gyms and shops, as well as at Sharp End Books. It only covers the WMWR and Quartz, but it does so very well. Most routes, as well as select bouldering, are covered in the guide.
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Los Alamos, NM
It is VERY humid and hot in the summer. All the climbing that we found, except for a cave area found on upper Mount Scott, is in the sun until later in the afternoon. Even The Meadows, which promised to be North facing by the guide book was directly in the sun until about 1:30 pm. (Somebody please list some a.m. shady climbing if you know of any.)
Bring long (20+ foot) slings or cords to build anchors around boulders. There are few anchors on any of these walls and 10 feet of webbing isn't going to be enough.
There is Poison Ivy everywhere--even inside some of the cracks you are jamming. Be prepared to wash exposed skin and separate clothes soon after climbing. You WILL come in contact with poison ivy--at least in the summer time--it really is everywhere you look.
There are lot's of ticks. We didn't have any tick spray and my son and I picked off 30 ticks between us. Bring something for the ticks or you'll need to find good friend to pull ticks off your ass cheeks and possibly beyond.
Some of the trails (as of 6/10) are a bit over grown, destroyed, or unmarked. Plan on doing some wondering to find the walls. It is not that bad, just not the 15 minute approach promised in the guide
This is just a preparation list of the things I wish I knew before climbing at the refuge. The granite is wonderful and solid. It offers great climbing. I found the rangers very nice and informative and there is no charge for parking or park fees. The park welcomes climbers.
Enjoy, but be prepared. May 31, 2010
Poison ivy in cracks? Hmmm.. I have never had that problem.
Ticks. Yea, like any green area there are ticks but in the 20 years I've been climbing in the Refuge I might get one or two if I don't use bug spray.
A good early AM area to climb in the summer is..
West Face of Crab Eyes, Echo Dome, Hidden Wall, Lost Dome to name a few.. Mar 28, 2011
Oklahoma City, OK
Lubbock, TX
Boulder, CO
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Lubbock, TX
When it's hot. Narrows, you can chase the shade all day. I like to start at Lichen Wall, mid day have a siesta soaking feet in the river, and usually end at Zoo Wall or the Tower.
Longer hike out but you can find shade all day either side of Crab Eyes.
Mount Scott is another gem, most of the upper gets blazed, Romper Room sees no sun all day. Both upper and lower get shade late. Jan 12, 2017
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Thanks for quick reply. So is your experience that with a little bit of planning and good strategy there is great climbing to be enjoyed even in July? I would be very siked if this were the case! I will we driving down from Michigan, through Illinois and Missouri and then possibly into Texas in search of areas that are climbable in July. I would love any additional beta. Jan 12, 2017
Lubbock, TX
Texas? You could go down to Austin, and Enchanted Rock... same swampy heat with lesser quality rock.
Now over around El Paso, Hueco Tanks... it's everything you've heard, but that's a mega long trip you need reservations for... consider 2 hours closer, around Carlsbad NM, You could hit what I consider the ultimate summer oasis with free camping... Sitting Bull Falls! Shade all day, swimming hole to cool off, and world class limestone. Do know, the warm up routes are all 10's, and this place truly shines in the 12's.
8 miles up the canyon from Sitting Bull, is Last Chance. Another crag where you can climb in the shade all day long no matter the grade you climb. Best practice during the summer is to hike in late morning to early afternoon, climb till sun goes down, simply to avoid getting blazed by the sun on the short but brutal hike out. Jan 12, 2017
Fayetteville, AR
Russell, it sounds like Mount Scott will be your best bet. Lower Scott has a a couple of sport routes and moderate trad, while Upper Scott is almost all moderate trad. Both have super short approaches and quality climbs. Mar 2, 2018
1) stop in the Nature Center, at least pick up a new sticker or purchase something really cool to support the refuge!
2) Tony's new guidebook is amazing! Tony, thank you for your hard work. Your last book was put to good use, and was sad to retire it yesterday. But your new one is too awesome! Also pick it up and continue to support...
3) i picked up more litter than usual...chances are, if your reading these comments, your a climber and not just a visitor. So I know your not littering. I encourage everyone to play a small role and pick up any trash you see. Apr 1, 2018
Frisco, TX
Oklahoma City, OK
Austin Texas
Norman, OK
Guidebooks often make mistakes but I can shed a little light on Tra Hex. After cross referencing about 10 different guides, there seems to be three common lines that this route takes. Which makes sense as nature of the rock here provides the climber with many low grade options after the first pitch. The original guide for the area matches what you see here on MP. However only the first pitch is 5.6, the rest is loose, runout, low 5th class or less. This makes me believe that Tony thought that only including the first pitch would make the most sense.
The best way to climb Tra Hex in my opinion is to climb the first pitch and lower off the fixed hardware, or continue relatively straight up to a bolt then top out left. This will allow you to climb two 5.6 pitches that are relatively clean and direct. Aug 15, 2022
Flatlands
Norman, OK