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Sidewalk Buttress

Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Old Rd Crags > Leigh Creek
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

A really fun place to do long and challenging sport routes. Routes may go as long as 160 feet in a single overhanging mega-pitch.

The stone here is a bit out of the ordinary as well. Super-pocketed. Not bullet hard like most of the canyon, not compact like at the Dry wall. Best description would be sort of like swiss cheese rock. You won't find any lack of things to pull on, it will just be a matter of keeping the pump down.

This is one of the earliest crags to go in at Tensleep. Stan Price bolted several routes here back in the 80's. There are actually lots of bolts on the routes, so don't expect big run outs.

For my taste, the stone here is not as good as up at the Mondo Beyondo area, but if you want to hit some steep stuff lower in the canyon (like on a cold day), this is definitely a place you will enjoy. And just a trip up the 160 foot "Where the Sidewalk Ends" (11b) is worth a visit all by itself.

The crag faces southwest so it is shady in the morning and sunny in the afternoon - the heat is typically sweltering late in the day. Plan on hitting this in the AM and then pop over to all the new routes on the other side of Leigh Creek for the afternoon.

Getting There

At the very bottom of the canyon, down around 4000 feet. Park at or near the campground at the bottom of the Canyon, and follow an obvious trail for a few hundred yards up to the cliff.

Pretty easy to spot - about 200 feet tall and overhanging with bolts, chalk and all that.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 85
Where the Sidewalk Ends
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 124
If Dreams Were Thunder
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 38
Sheep Reaction
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 51
Shhhhh Eeep
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Where the Sidewalk Ends
 85
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
If Dreams Were Thunder
 124
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sheep Reaction
 38
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Shhhhh Eeep
 51
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Steep, juggy and exposed. Good stuff. July 2013.
[Hide Photo] Steep, juggy and exposed. Good stuff. July 2013.