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Sidewalk Buttress
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Old Rd Crags
> Leigh Creek
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
A really fun place to do long and challenging sport routes. Routes may go as long as 160 feet in a single overhanging mega-pitch.
The stone here is a bit out of the ordinary as well. Super-pocketed. Not bullet hard like most of the canyon, not compact like at the Dry wall. Best description would be sort of like swiss cheese rock. You won't find any lack of things to pull on, it will just be a matter of keeping the pump down.
This is one of the earliest crags to go in at Tensleep. Stan Price bolted several routes here back in the 80's. There are actually lots of bolts on the routes, so don't expect big run outs.
For my taste, the stone here is not as good as up at the Mondo Beyondo area, but if you want to hit some steep stuff lower in the canyon (like on a cold day), this is definitely a place you will enjoy. And just a trip up the 160 foot "Where the Sidewalk Ends" (11b) is worth a visit all by itself.
The crag faces southwest so it is shady in the morning and sunny in the afternoon - the heat is typically sweltering late in the day. Plan on hitting this in the AM and then pop over to all the new routes on the other side of Leigh Creek for the afternoon.
Getting There
At the very bottom of the canyon, down around 4000 feet. Park at or near the campground at the bottom of the Canyon, and follow an obvious trail for a few hundred yards up to the cliff.
Pretty easy to spot - about 200 feet tall and overhanging with bolts, chalk and all that.
Routes from Left to Right
[Hide Photo] Steep, juggy and exposed. Good stuff. July 2013.