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Main Wall

New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > Dungeon

Description

The large overwhelming, overhung cliff on the left side of the canyon. This cliff steals the show with great, difficult routes.

Getting There

Follow the directions to the Dungeon climbing area.

Routes

Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.

Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse
Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab
Brave Little Toaster 10c, New slab climb with lots of un-positive holds
Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish
(04) Battering Ram 11d, Also called Evil Elliot
Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt.
Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip
Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 5.12b, Steep Start to classic headwall
Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route
Gangland 5.12b aka Excalibur
Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux
The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon
(13) Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult
Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall
Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump
Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump
Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Phrenology
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Brave Little Toaster
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 26
Meltdown
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 5
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram)
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 27
Evil Alchemist
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 24
Siege Warfare
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Dragon's Lair
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 90
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route)
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 11
Death Drives a Stick
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
Gangland
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 25
Loose Cannon
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 8
The Catapult
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 81
Moat Jump
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Dump Trump
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
Moat Pump
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
The Dungeon Wedgie
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 9
Rogue Warrior
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Couch Warrior
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Disenchantment
Sport
V4 6B
 2
Castle Greyskull
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Phrenology
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Brave Little Toaster
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Meltdown
 26
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Evil Elliot (aka Battering…
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Evil Alchemist
 27
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Siege Warfare
 24
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Dragon's Lair
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Against Nature (aka Peter's…
 90
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Death Drives a Stick
 11
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Gangland
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Loose Cannon
 25
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Catapult
 8
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Moat Jump
 81
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dump Trump
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Moat Pump
 21
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Dungeon Wedgie
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Rogue Warrior
 9
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Couch Warrior
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Disenchantment
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Castle Greyskull
 2
V4 6B Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes on the Main Wall at The Dungeon.
[Hide Photo] Routes on the Main Wall at The Dungeon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.

00 Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse
01 Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab
02 Brave Little Toaster 10c, slab climb with lots of un-positive holds
03 Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish
04 Evil Elliot 11d, Also called Battering Ram??
05 Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt.
06 Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip
07 Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof
08 Peter's Route 5.12b, aka Against Nature, Steep Start to classic headwall
09 Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route
10 Excalibur 5.12c, aka Gangland
11 Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux
12 The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon
13 Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult
14 Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall
15 Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump
16 Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump's anchors
17 Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much. Jun 11, 2008