Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Strone Crag

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon

Getting There

The approach to Strone Crag is from Challenge Buttress. From the road, walk the well-trod Challenge Buttress trail to where it splits, then take the path to the right (the trail left goes to Challenge's East Face). After 40 or so feet, the trail splits again; stay to the right on the more level trail (going left leads to Challenge’s North and West Faces). For all routes except Standard Ridge, continue along this trail for maybe 200 feet (passing a collapsing, historic mining structure on the way) to where it starts up over watermelon-size rocks and scree, on the west side of a large scree and boulder gully.  After 20 feet or so, cut back left and follow steep switchbacks up the rightside (west) of the gully. The trail is easily followed from here, except for one section of boulder hopping—just keep going up, and soon reaches the right-end of the ledge system from which all the routes start except for Standard Ridge, and Itchy and Scratchy and its variations. (For Standard Ridge and Itchy and Scratchy, the approach is described on those routes' pages.) The start of the ledge system is usually marked by a cairn.

The approach described above may sound complicated, but it isn't; it'll take about ten minutes to get from the road to Starstruck, the first route encountered on the ledge system -- that is, unless you're a flatlander.  It is also possible to reach Strone via the approach to the Narcolepsy Area (see photodiagram posted on this page), but it is less enjoyable and potentially more confusing.

Description

Strone Crag is the large, mostly north-facing wall between Challenge Buttress to the east and the Narcolepsy area to the west. As far as I can tell, at least up until 1979, when John Gottman published his guide Wasatch Quartzite, the crag was apparently known only as the "Standard Ridge," after the long moderate climb that catches the top of the cliff from its lowest point, across the talus field from the West Face of Challenge Buttress. (Standard Ridge, the route, is posted on a different page, as if it is a separate crag; I suggest that we use the name ”Standard Ridge“ to refer only to the route, and move it under Strone Crag, as its eastern- or left-most route.)

According to Stuart Ruckman, Dana Hauser gave Strone Crag its name, presumably around 1987, when Dana, along with Jim Hall and IME co-owner Scott Carson, put up Le Rap et Tap, one of the best 5.11s in BCC. Strone is Scottish Gaelic for nose, apparently in reference to the huge roofband in the center of the crag, bracketed by Wealth of Nations and Space Cadet on the left margin of the roofband, and Orbital Decay and Cat-O-Nine-Tails on the right margin.

The left side of the crag, between Standard Ridge and Space Cadet, comes into the sun mid-morning and into the shade mid-afternoon. The right side of the crag, between Orbital Decay and Starstruck, stays in the shade until mid-afternoon. Consequently, it's possible to climb at the crag throughout the entire climbing season.

Although a large part of the crag is not visually appealing, it actually climbs quite well, but it is BCC quartzite, so expect the climbing generally not to be continuous and to have some occasional, standard Cottonwood quartzite funk. Except maybe for those climbing mid-12 and above, it is well worth a visit for at least a half a day, regardless of your preferred grade, although pure sport climbers likely will be disappointed because many of the routes require at least a few cams. All routes can be descended with a single 60m, typically from chain anchors or Metolius rap anchors. A 70m rope is more convenient, however, to get off Kiss the Sky, Old Habits, Mad Calf, Cost of Business, Starstruck, Cersei, and Tyrion. For these routes, a 70m rope allows one to avoid a hanging rappel station (the hanging belay of Mad Calf) or an extra rappel (from the top of the first pitch of Cersei).

Aerial overview here.;cp=qs359d5pn1z7&lvl=18.91&dir=173.88&sty=b&where1=40.6214%2C%20-111.7461&form=LMLTCC

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
Rear-View Mirrors
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Major Tom
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 9
Le Rap Et Tap
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Wealth of Nations
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Space Cadet
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
Orbital Decay
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Cat-O-Nine-Tails
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Creaking Plank
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Nimbus
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Red Gorilla
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 8
Gods and Monsters
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 1
Bad Monsters (Unknown)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 37
Firefly
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Mr. Bad Luck
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 6
Brad's Bane
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Kiss the Sky
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Mad Calf Disease
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Old Habits Die Hard
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Cersei
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
Cost of Business
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Tyrion
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Akahi
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Minotaur
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 114
Starstruck
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 106
Itchy Scratchy
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Road to Recovery
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rear-View Mirrors
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Major Tom
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Le Rap Et Tap
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Wealth of Nations
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Space Cadet
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Orbital Decay
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Cat-O-Nine-Tails
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Creaking Plank
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Nimbus
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Red Gorilla
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Gods and Monsters
 8
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Bad Monsters (Unknown)
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Firefly
 37
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Mr. Bad Luck
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Brad's Bane
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Kiss the Sky
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Mad Calf Disease
 6
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Old Habits Die Hard
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Cersei
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Cost of Business
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Tyrion
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Akahi
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Minotaur
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Starstruck
 114
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Itchy Scratchy
 106
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Road to Recovery
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

[[108233287]] (blue)
<br>

<br>
Routes branching off Firefly: 
<br>
[[109316093]] (red)
<br>
[[108233342]] (yellow) 
<br>
[[106969998]] (green)
<br>
[[106270228]] (yellow)
<br>
[[106270236]] (pink). 
<br>

<br>
Circled arrows mark chain anchors.
[Hide Photo] Firefly (blue) Routes branching off Firefly: Gods and Monsters (red) Mr. Bad Luck (yellow) Kiss the Sky (green) Mad Calf Disease (yellow) Cost of Business (pink). Circled arrows mark…
Northwest face, select routes: <br>
<br>
[[107666721]] - red <br>
[[106970007]] - orange <br>
[[107666706]] - yellow <br>
[[108233342]] (1st pitch) - light green [[108233287]] - light blue <br>
[[106969998]] (second  pitch) - black<br>
[[106270228]] - purple <br>
[[106270217]] - white <br>
[[109298172]] - peach <br>
[[109298180]] - dark green <br>
[[106270196]] - dark blue  <br>
<br>
Circled arrows are chain anchors.
[Hide Photo] Northwest face, select routes: Orbital Decay - red Creaking Plank - orange Red Gorilla - yellow Mr. Bad Luck (1st pitch) - light green Firefly - light blue Kiss the Sky (second pitch)…
Northeast Face of Strone Crag:<br>
<br>
[[107752362]] (green)<br>
[[107752350]] (yellow)<br>
[[105995292]] (blue)<br>
[[105844434]] (orange)<br>
[[108325774]] (purple)<br>
[[107666721]] (light blue)<br>
<br>
Known variations marked by dotted line.  Photo by Ryan Brough.
[Hide Photo] Northeast Face of Strone Crag: Rear-View Mirrors (green) Major Tom (yellow) Le Rap Et Tap (blue) Wealth of Nations (orange) Space Cadet (purple) Orbital Decay (light blue) Known variatio…
The northwest face of Strone Crag.  Starstuck is marked in red.  The other routes are the original lines of Cost of Business and and Old Habits Die Hard, but see those pages for the now-recommended lines.
[Hide Photo] The northwest face of Strone Crag. Starstuck is marked in red. The other routes are the original lines of Cost of Business and and Old Habits Die Hard, but see those pages for the now-recommended…
Strone Crag North Face
[Hide Photo] Strone Crag North Face
Another view of the Northwest Face, showing Kiss the Sky-purple and Mad Calf (with original start)-blue.
[Hide Photo] Another view of the Northwest Face, showing Kiss the Sky-purple and Mad Calf (with original start)-blue.
Far-right side of the northwest face of Strone Crag.  Minotaur is shown in blue, Minotaur Right in purple, and the first pitch of Starstruck in red.
[Hide Photo] Far-right side of the northwest face of Strone Crag. Minotaur is shown in blue, Minotaur Right in purple, and the first pitch of Starstruck in red.
Photodiagram of Strone Crag and vicinity showing the optional approach (in red) from the Narcolepsy parking area to the ledge system from which Creaking Plank, Nimbus, Starstruck, and the routes between start.  The better approach is from Challenge Buttress, as described elsewhere.
[Hide Photo] Photodiagram of Strone Crag and vicinity showing the optional approach (in red) from the Narcolepsy parking area to the ledge system from which Creaking Plank, Nimbus, Starstruck, and the routes be…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] We hiked way the hell up the loose gully between the Strone Crag and Challenge Buttress before we realized the right turn is almost immediately after passing Hollow Man before any rock is encountered on the right. Jul 10, 2011
[Hide Comment] You want to know how to get there? Read the second paragraph of John S.' comment. Seriously, that description is perfect and easy to follow, thank you sir! May 3, 2013
johnny bedge
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] It took me a little while to find this as I think there are more trails now. The first set of directions are still the same, take the first right once on the trail from the road and follow that until you exit the trees. On the far side of the gully, you'll see a trail switch-backing up the right side of this gully. Youll want to take this all the way up to the top (strone wall is on your left when going up the gully) until it runs you into a wall where youll see an obvious trail going left, along the base of the wall. This is the start of strone Jun 13, 2016
[Hide Comment] The North-West face of Strone Crag is lemonade. As in a lemon that has been squeezed dry. Despite reviewing the photos and descriptions ( and J.S. is one hell of a technical writer!) I found this zone complicated and confusing. Bolts everywhere, anchors everywhere. In-obvious routes crossing routes. Variations of sub-routes crossing crossed in-obvious routes...it's like a bunch of twisted snakes in a damn gunny-sack. Who wants to stick their hand in that!? I still don't know what I climbed, and I'm bored from the tedium of the database search.

And...is it recommended to approach the Le Rap et Tap zone from the catwalk trail coming from the west? Or is there a better approach for that east side? Sep 20, 2018
[Hide Comment] Felt the same way Brad, but the more you go there, the more the routes make sense. I hope the same wil be true for me someday with Tanners. Sep 20, 2018
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the diplomacy zozo. B-man (aka Past User), I suspect you stumbled on to a new line that wasn’t posted (it is now though — Brad’s Bane). I’ll see what I can do to make the route descriptions clearer; we don’t want folks having too much adventure! Mar 31, 2019
[Hide Comment] As you are walking up the trail at the base of the wall, instead of cutting left and you go right. And follow the trail it takes you at a low angle slab with bolts in it. Name? Climb info? It’s not lonesome buttress. Thanks Jul 18, 2022
[Hide Comment] @Ric King: Itchy and Scratchy?

mountainproject.com/route/1… Jul 18, 2022