Wild Iris is one of the most beautiful sport climbing areas in the U.S. It's hard to beat a warm summer day spent climbing the white dolomite pockets of Wild Iris. And to top it off, you'll belay comfortably beneath a peaceful canopy of aspen trees. Sublime.
The climbs are mostly short, and occasionally sharp, but the climbing and experience is more than enough to compensate for these minor drawbacks. There are plenty of routes from 5.9 on up to 5.14, so most climbers will find more than enough to stay busy.
Wild Iris is located at Limestone Mountain at an elevation of 9,000 feet. The climbing season begins when the snow melts (early June) and can last into late Fall. The high altitude makes summer climbing pleasant, but be aware that the weather can change at any moment - wind and cold storms are common all summer. Many of the climbs face south, so also be prepared for warm temps! Remember this is Wyoming - land of the extremes!
A growing number of established, free camping spots are available along the road below the OK Corral. Other primitive, dispersed spots are available above this road and at the Aspen Glades parking/camping area. Currently, there are two vault toilet in the area located just up from the main parking lot for OK Corral/Main Lot and off left at the large Aspen Glade parking/camping area down left on Limestone Mountain road. There isn't any water or infrastructure beyond some bear boxes. The closest supplies are located in Lander. Cell service can be had at the top of Lightning Ridge and from the Main Wall parking lot. The OK Corral and Aspen Glade campgrounds have no cell service.
Also, be sure to check out this video about the history of Lander climbing if you have not seen it already.
https://vimeo.com/78859472
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Fort Collins, CO
Salt Lake City, UT
Hands down, this crag features the most gorgeous free car camping I have enjoyed anywhere. Check out the sites on the right side once you drive down the gnarly camping access road below the main pit toilet.
As for the climbing, relative to the tufa-filled Thailand limestone I have enjoyed before, the white limestone of Wild Iris was much more technical and generally kicked my butt.
If you like short, steep sport climbs with hand holds that are 80%+ pockets of some kind with mostly Smith Rock-style thin edges for feet, you will adore this place. If that's not your style, you'll probably hate it (at least at first). In short, it seemed like a polarizing place.
The "Main Wall" is definitely the place to be if the weather allows you to be in the South-facing aspect all day. A long, continuous section of walls there may challenge your route ID skills (as it did ours even given the "Lander Rock Climbs" guidebook), but will offer endless route days for for 5.10+ sport climber. Jul 18, 2013
Lander, WY
Calgary, AB
Albuquerque, NM
On the way to opening some sick V-B bouldering problems (they are must do's; one problem even has a beer-nook for the move that requires two hands) on Limestone Mountain's prominent ridge, I stumbled upon Bob Marley's Long Lost Grinder reflecting the sunlight in between some lose rocks, dirty and spare grass. Please describe the grinder, and it's the aroma, especially the later in detail, so that I know it is really yours. Then, we can figure out how to get it back to you.
Happy climbing and other activities... Sep 5, 2016
Knoxville, TN
Boulder, CO
Salt Lake Coty
Lessons learned; 1: Camp at the quarry or in aspen glades 2. Have a good spare and make sure it's filled. 3. Don't get a flat on a saturday night or Sunday because you're out of luck until Monday at 8am. 4. The tow trucks can't help you or tow you if you are on an unmaintained road, even with triple a. 5. Climbers are very helpful, we are lucky to have such a great community. Jul 24, 2017
Lander, Wy
Michigan
Wyoming
Ketchum, ID
Fort Collins, CO
Lander, WY
Lander, WY
Teton Valley