Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)

Minnesota > Blue Mounds SP… > N Quarry Area

Description

The east face of the Kanaranzi Buttress contains several high quality climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.11. Including the classic lead Crazy Crack (5.7), and the classic top rope routes Kanaranzi Right (5.9+), and Purgatory (5.11a). The bottom of this area is protected from the sun, although the top halves of the climbs do see sun throughout most of the day. The top of the cliff sees plenty of sun as well, so the sunscreen might come in handy while setting up top ropes. The placements tend to be a bit spread out in this area, so bring plenty of webbing for the top rope setup.

Getting There

From the parking lot off Rock County Highway 8 take the main paved pedestrian/bike path. One approach is to take the trail the spurs off at the outhouse. Follow this trail to the base of the cliff and continue to the right for about 100 yards to the base of Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face) and continue right another 25 feet to the face of this buttress. Another alternative it to take the next trail after the outhouse, this cuts a direct line to the East Face of the Kanaranzi Buttress.

Top Access/Descent: The easiest access to the top is a third class chimney just left (south) of Triple Chockstone at the south end of Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face).

Routes from Left to Right

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
The Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 36
Crazy Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
The Guillotine
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
Kanaranzi Right
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Purgatory
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
Stairway to Heaven
TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 2
Stairway To Hell
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Crack
 12
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Crazy Crack
 36
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Guillotine
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Kanaranzi Right
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Purgatory
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Stairway to Heaven
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Stairway To Hell
 2
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking from flat top buttress over at the east face of the Kanaranzi Buttress.
[Hide Photo] Looking from flat top buttress over at the east face of the Kanaranzi Buttress.