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The Crack House Rock Climbing
Routes in The Crack House
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Bold Yellow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gargoyle Gardens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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High Desert T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Is Hard To Say T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snafu T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Rock, Good Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Rock, Good Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mountin' Mahogany T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jug-A-Lug S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stub-a-Chub S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| GPS: |
42.12519, -113.67126 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 15,242 total · 66/month |
| Shared By: | David Tvedt on Apr 19, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
The Crack House is a highly featured wall that faces NW off the north tip of Castle Rock. It has one sport route, Jug-a-Lug, and a number of named and identified crack lines. In addition to multiple close interconnecting crack lines covering the wall, it also has many face holds and horns. The potential for different gear-led lines/variations besides these named routes is quite huge. Identifying specific lines can be difficult however because of all the possible variations. Shade until early afternoon.
Getting There
Approach the area from any of the trails on the east side, heading to the farthest north tip of Castle Rock. The Crack House is just around the corner to the west and faces toward the NW and Poultry Pillar. An alternative approach can reach The Crack House from the west via the notch from Hostess Gully (the west-side gully between the Main Castle Rock and the West Buttress.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Crack House
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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