All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sleeping Beauty

Lost Highway Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lost Highway Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Avalon World AKA Chong's Biway S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Cheech and Choss S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Choss Boss T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
	Cross Your Mind S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Heavy Duty AKA Moss Highway T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Lost Highway S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Lost Your Mind TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Orgasmatron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sleepwalkin' S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Sweeping Beauty S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Wizard of Moss, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	7,424 ft	2,263 m
GPS:	39.9969, -105.41707 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	14,448 total · 64/month
Shared By:	Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) Details

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.

From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:

Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…

Description

The Lost Highway area is on the far right side of Sleeping Beauty. It is isolated from the rest of the rock and has a more remote feel.

L->R:

A. Heavy Duty AKA Moss Highway , 10, 1p, 120', gear.
above A. Sweeping Beauty , 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
BA. The Wizard of Moss , 10-, 1p, 120', bolts.
C. Sleepwalkin', 11-, 1p, bolts.
D. Lost Your Mind, 11-, 1p, TR.
E. Cross Your Mind, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Orgasmatron, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
G. Lost Highway, 10, 3p, 200', bolts.
HG. Avalon World AKA Chong's Biway , 11, 1p, bolts.
I. Cheech and Choss, 10+, 1p, bolts.
above I into P2 of I. 7 R, 1p, gear.
above I. Choss Boss , 8- R, 1p, 70', gear.

Getting There

Approach: See Mystic Mile for how to get to Ledge 2. Walk right on Ledge 2 past Mystic Mile. Rack up and leave your packs at either the second-to-last large tree (Eight Miles High) or at the last large tree (Arcanum). You will be rappelling down right of Arcanum. Walk further right to where the ledge ends, then scramble about 20 feet to the top of a pillar. The rappel bolts are just right of the pillar on a small ledge. A single-rope rappel brings you to a nice large grassy ledge with trees. You could, if necessary, rap from trees from here to the approach trail. The climbs begin near the right edge of the ledge.

Descent

Per tbol: rapping off the trees to escape is no longer necessary if you have a 70 meter rope. We added an anchor to avoid that, and a 35 meter rap will make it back down to the trail if you stay left at the bottom.