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Elevation: 7,514 ft 2,290 m
GPS: 39.99654, -105.41685
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Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

L->R:

A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.

Getting There Suggest change

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Main Wall »

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