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West Gully

Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Avalon > Third Tier
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

The West Gully lies just beyond the Wall of the Goddess. It is a steep gully with no established trail. Be careful scrambling in this area, as there is some loose rock and bushes to deal with.

Richard Rossiter established five routes here in 2005.

L->R:

A. Merlin's Enigma, 11+, 1p, 4 bolts. V-dihedral to roof.
B. Charon's Boat, 9+, 1p, 3 bolts. Corner to hand traverse.
C. Knight of Swords, 10, 1p, 5 bolts. Steep face by big boulder.
D. Dragon Direct, 9, 1p, 70', 2 bolts & gear to 2".
E. Sorcerer's Apprentice, 7+, 1p, 3 bolts, optional gear.

Getting There

Continue left past the Wall of the Goddess and drop down to a pile of boulders. The West Gully rises immediately to the right.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 17
Merlin's Enigma
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 23
Charon's Boat
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
Knight of Swords
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Dragon Direct
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Sorcerer's Apprentice
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Merlin's Enigma
 17
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Charon's Boat
 23
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Knight of Swords
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Dragon Direct
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sorcerer's Apprentice
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Avalon, showing most of the major features.<br>
<br>
Note: The depicted Northeast Face is also known as Crack Land.
[Hide Photo] Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note: The depicted Northeast Face is also known as Crack Land.
Avalon Upper Wall Routes.  Photo taken from Upper Animal World.
[Hide Photo] Avalon Upper Wall Routes. Photo taken from Upper Animal World.