West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 5,500 ft | 1,676 m |
GPS: |
39.93063, -105.28689 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 68,434 total · 301/month | |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This section is the lowest section of The West Ridge. It is extends from the waterline/base of the ridge to arbitrarily Verschneidung. Certainly, this is the least famous of the sections of The West Ridge. Consequently, lines are generally shorter here. Access is quicker as well. Descents off the backside/E face, if you top out, are quicker, too.
This section of the ridge appears to contain the earliest route done on the ridge, Initial Route, 5.8, by none other than the then-climbing-omnivore Layton Kor with Herb Swedlund, in 1963.
While there may be no top-one hundred in Eldorado Canyon SP here, still there are some pleasant lines here. You may note that most of the routes listed here (to the left) for this section are in the 0-1 star range. Still, you may enjoy: the mini-classic Verschneidung, 5.7; the spicy Allosaur, 5.9 s; the short but energizing Morning Thunder, 5.9+; the strenuous Wing Shot, 5.11b; the invigorating Wild Turkey, 5.11c/d s; the once test-piece Office Girls Walk the Plank, 5.12d; among others.
This is a place to savor the less-frequented side of Eldorado.
This section of the ridge appears to contain the earliest route done on the ridge, Initial Route, 5.8, by none other than the then-climbing-omnivore Layton Kor with Herb Swedlund, in 1963.
While there may be no top-one hundred in Eldorado Canyon SP here, still there are some pleasant lines here. You may note that most of the routes listed here (to the left) for this section are in the 0-1 star range. Still, you may enjoy: the mini-classic Verschneidung, 5.7; the spicy Allosaur, 5.9 s; the short but energizing Morning Thunder, 5.9+; the strenuous Wing Shot, 5.11b; the invigorating Wild Turkey, 5.11c/d s; the once test-piece Office Girls Walk the Plank, 5.12d; among others.
This is a place to savor the less-frequented side of Eldorado.
Getting There
Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach this section of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Or, you can approach by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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