Redgarden - Lumpe to the top Rock Climbing

The upper or left section of Redgarden Wall is contained here and includes Lumpe Tower, Middle Tower, and the Hot Spur. It is characterized by generally by somewhat lower-end difficulty routes with more broken rock in sections. Protection and route-finding skills are mandatory here. The routes remain moderate in length but definitely have a pleasant feel of adventure.

This section of Redgarden Wall includes routes from the top or left-most sections of Redgarden Wall to include Lumpe Tower. To define the irregular Lumpe tower, we exclude terrain on Tower One, which we arbitrarily demarcate by a line connecting the obvious large dihedral separating upper Tower One & Lumpe Tower, aka The Dirty Deed, and connect this to the ground with obvious, West Chimney.

While this section may not be as packed with history as some of the other sections of Redgarden Wall, there is still interesting tidbits here like Larry Dalke just deciding to free The Green Spur in 1964 on a whim in Climb!. There is also a fun video clip of the talented, Beth Bennett climbing Silver Raven in Front Range Freaks.

Some of the classics include: the fun Swanson Arete, 5.5; the beautiful Rewritten, 5.7; the zesty The Great Zot to The Zot Face, 5.8+; the fine Green Slab Direct, 5.9; challenging The Green Spur, 5.9; the desert-like Darkness 'til Dawn, 5.9+; the classic Grandmother's Challenge, 5.10c; the tricky Disappearing Act, 5.11a; the beautiful Silver Raven, 5.11d; the necky & controversial Paris Girl, 5.13a.

One thing to consider here is that some of these lines do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm.

There are few rappel routes in the area. You can descend Lumpe Tower with rappels along the Swanson Arete and right area with a traverse, 3 double rope rappels to the ground. You can also risk the rope-catching Dirty Deed rappel. When in doubt, you can always traverse left at the top of the walls here to a 3rd class-4th class descent beyond the Hot Spur.