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Spiral Staircase area Climbing
Routes in Spiral Staircase area
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8mm T WI4 M7 |
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Big GB S M5 |
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Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) T WI5 M6 |
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Dragon's Tongue T,S WI5+ M7 PG13 |
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IMAPNISS WI4+ M5 |
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Lil' GB S M4+ |
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Little Feat AKA Sorpion S M7 |
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Log-Jammin' T WI3-4 M4-5 R |
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Menora T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 M4-5 |
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Pink Funhouse S M7 |
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Public Masturbation S M8 |
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Rust Never Sleeps S WI5- M5+ PG13 |
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Secret Probation T WI5 M6 |
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Slabutt T WI3+ |
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Spiral Staircase T WI4- M5 |
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Titties 'n' Beer S WI5- M7 |
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Tourette's T WI4 M6 |
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| Elevation: | 9,000 ft | 2,743 m |
| GPS: |
39.63418, -106.30189 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 35,460 total · 155/month | |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 19, 2006 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is an area created to help with the organization and reduce the cluster for the Vail ice/mixed area.
This area is located uphill or East of the Rigid Designator/Fang amphitheatre. The classic of the area is the Spiral Staircase. There have been routes put in to the left of Spiral Staircase. Since the opening of that route, lines left, right, and above have been done. The area above is called the Pencil & Eraser area or the Belfry. Multiple modern mixed lines fill this small amphitheatre. All these routes are short, none longer than 25m.
You can get a fun glissade on the way down. Beware, at least one climber has blown out a knee on too fast a descent!
This area is located uphill or East of the Rigid Designator/Fang amphitheatre. The classic of the area is the Spiral Staircase. There have been routes put in to the left of Spiral Staircase. Since the opening of that route, lines left, right, and above have been done. The area above is called the Pencil & Eraser area or the Belfry. Multiple modern mixed lines fill this small amphitheatre. All these routes are short, none longer than 25m.
You can get a fun glissade on the way down. Beware, at least one climber has blown out a knee on too fast a descent!
Getting There
It's best to exit I-70 at the E Vail exit, about 100miles W of Denver, parking problems abound here, find legal parking or be rich, or you can park near the Pumphouse area. Then hike back east to Spiral Stairs. Climb it or 4th class gully to the right.
History
From Rich Purnell: Misery was the first mixed line in the upper Staircase area, which I refer to as the Belfry (Spiral Stairs leads to the Belfry). It was put up in February of 1998 with a hand drill and boasted two pins. Svengali followed the next Jan and sent on Feb. 3rd in '99 then Quasimodo in about 2003. All these routes were FA'd without the nice leashless tools and heelspurs we now all know and love. Finally, Pete Takeda and I added Guano and Esmeralda sometime around 2004. I think there is still at least two routes to do here, and a variation to Svengali that would be pretty nice.
L->R:
work in progress, please be patient
Thanks to Colorado Mountain Journal for the info & to inspire the update.
Lower Tier
A. Little Feat AKA Sorpion, M6+, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. ??, M7, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Menora, 5.8+ WI4 M4-5, 1p, 80', gear & screws.
D. 8mm, WI4 M7, 1p, bolts.
E. Dragon's Tongue, WI5+ M7 PG-13, 1p, 65', bolts & screws.
F. Tourette's, WI4- M6, 1p, bolts & screws.
G. Unnamed Verglas, WI4, 1p.
H. IMAPNISS, WI4+ M5, 1p, 80', gear & screws.
I. Lil' GB, M4+, 1p, 50', bolts.
J. Big GB, M5, 1p, bolts.
K. Slabutt, WI3, 1p, 70', screws or TR.
L. Titties 'n' Beer, M7-, 1p, 60', bolts.
M. Public Masturbation, M8, 1p, 60', bolts.
N. Pink Funhouse, M7, 1p, 45', bolts.
O. Log-Jammin', WI3-4 M4-5 R, 1p, 45', gear & screws or TR.
P. Boxed In (aka Stemcicle), WI5 M7, 1p, 65', bolts, gear, & screws.
Q. Spiral Staircase, WI3-4, 1p, 80', screws.
R. Secret Probation, WI5 M4-7, 1p, 80', bolts & screws.
S. Rust Never Sleeps, WI5+ M6+, 1p, 80', 3 bolts & a stubbie.
4th class access with a fixed rope.
Upper Tier (The Belfry)
A. Eraser, WI4-5, 1p, 40', screws.
B. Middle Curtain, WI4-5, 1p, 40', screws.
C. Svengali, M9, 1p, bolts & screws.
D. Pencil, WI4, 1p, 40', screws.
E. Quasimodo, WI4 M6-7, 1p, bolts, gear, & screws.
F. Misery, M8, 1p, bolts & screws.
G. Esmerelda, WI4 M6+, 1p, bolts & screws.
H. Guano, M5, 1p, bolts.
Thanks to Colorado Mountain Journal for the info & to inspire the update.
Lower Tier
A. Little Feat AKA Sorpion, M6+, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. ??, M7, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Menora, 5.8+ WI4 M4-5, 1p, 80', gear & screws.
D. 8mm, WI4 M7, 1p, bolts.
E. Dragon's Tongue, WI5+ M7 PG-13, 1p, 65', bolts & screws.
F. Tourette's, WI4- M6, 1p, bolts & screws.
G. Unnamed Verglas, WI4, 1p.
H. IMAPNISS, WI4+ M5, 1p, 80', gear & screws.
I. Lil' GB, M4+, 1p, 50', bolts.
J. Big GB, M5, 1p, bolts.
K. Slabutt, WI3, 1p, 70', screws or TR.
L. Titties 'n' Beer, M7-, 1p, 60', bolts.
M. Public Masturbation, M8, 1p, 60', bolts.
N. Pink Funhouse, M7, 1p, 45', bolts.
O. Log-Jammin', WI3-4 M4-5 R, 1p, 45', gear & screws or TR.
P. Boxed In (aka Stemcicle), WI5 M7, 1p, 65', bolts, gear, & screws.
Q. Spiral Staircase, WI3-4, 1p, 80', screws.
R. Secret Probation, WI5 M4-7, 1p, 80', bolts & screws.
S. Rust Never Sleeps, WI5+ M6+, 1p, 80', 3 bolts & a stubbie.
4th class access with a fixed rope.
Upper Tier (The Belfry)
A. Eraser, WI4-5, 1p, 40', screws.
B. Middle Curtain, WI4-5, 1p, 40', screws.
C. Svengali, M9, 1p, bolts & screws.
D. Pencil, WI4, 1p, 40', screws.
E. Quasimodo, WI4 M6-7, 1p, bolts, gear, & screws.
F. Misery, M8, 1p, bolts & screws.
G. Esmerelda, WI4 M6+, 1p, bolts & screws.
H. Guano, M5, 1p, bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Spiral Staircase area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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