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Bear Creek Spire

California > High Sierra > 06 - Little Lakes Val…

Description

This fantastic rock peak dominates Little Lakes Valley and has at least four high-quality routes to its name. Another High Sierra prerequisite summit.

Getting There

From 395 at Tom's Place drive west to Mosquito Flats. Hike along Little Lakes Valley trail to Long Lake, then follow a faint trail up to either Treasure Lakes or before reaching those lakes cut left and up to the desolate Dade Lake (4.25 miles, 1,300 feet of elevation gain).

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
East Arete
Trad, Alpine 22 pitches
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 180
Northeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 242
North Arete
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Arete
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 22 pitches
Northeast Ridge
 180
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
North Arete
 242
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From Mt. Morgan (S)
[Hide Photo] From Mt. Morgan (S)
approach to the north arete
[Hide Photo] approach to the north arete
Bear Creek Spire from the southwest at "L"<br>
Lake.
[Hide Photo] Bear Creek Spire from the southwest at "L" Lake.
Brad and Scott view the route before we start the climb.
[Hide Photo] Brad and Scott view the route before we start the climb.
The Spire in profile.
[Hide Photo] The Spire in profile.
Three routes on Bear Creek Spire.
[Hide Photo] Three routes on Bear Creek Spire.
Bear Creek Spire from Morgan Pass.
[Hide Photo] Bear Creek Spire from Morgan Pass.
The Spire from a frozen Long Lake
[Hide Photo] The Spire from a frozen Long Lake
First light on Bear Creek Spire
[Hide Photo] First light on Bear Creek Spire
The Spire (left of center) seen from Heart Lake
[Hide Photo] The Spire (left of center) seen from Heart Lake
Bear Creek Spire at dusk.
[Hide Photo] Bear Creek Spire at dusk.
Chris en route to BCS
[Hide Photo] Chris en route to BCS

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Galen Rowell's name will forever be associated with this peak. He was on the first ascent of the N Arete, S Face and also a different route on the South Face, solo. The latter was completed in 24 hours, car to car, including a 40 mile bike ride to get between trailheads! He also climbed it in winter. Aug 27, 2007
PumpkinEater
Sacramento
[Hide Comment] The story of Rowell jumping on his stashed road bike after doing a solo FA of the S. Face of Bear Creek is one of the most inspiring pieces of Sierra-lore there is. Very cool. Jul 23, 2010
Joe Crawford
Truckee, CA
[Hide Comment] Approaching via Treasure Lakes is the faster, easier approach. The Supertopo beta says that Gem Lakes is easier, with less talus: this is 100% false. Sep 12, 2018
[Hide Comment] After four trips to the area I'd still recommend Gem Lakes. It may be a slightly longer distance, but the trail is obvious, mostly flat, (except for the Gem Lakes' talus) and easily can be done in dark. The Treasure Lakes trail is not that obvious, especially with some snow still on the ground. (for winter climbing or backcountry skiing - Treasure Lakes is definitely the way to go).

North and Northeast routes get the morning sun. Last weekend had the longest day of a year (6/20/20). Sunset was around 5:35AM. The North Arete's approach pitch didn't get sun until 5:50AM. At 4AM was bright enough to start the approach without a headlamp.

My preferred route is Gem Lakes trail to the very end. Negotiate the talus starting on its left side, and moving to the right at the top. Continue on the lower ground to the right until Dade Lake and circle the lake on its left (condition permitting). From there pick the path of least resistance. Jun 22, 2020
[Hide Comment] I had some free time yesterday on my descent, so I decided to check out Joe's Treasure Lakes approach beta. I did not find it preferable to the Gem Lakes approach. While it probably takes a shorter overall distance, it adds lots more cross country terrain. Stick with the guidebook beta, it's actually very easy. Jun 29, 2020
Jeff H
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] If you're camping on the west side of Gem Lakes - there are good tent platforms there - an easy walk to Dade Lake is via the Gem Lakes / Treasure Lakes Pass. There's a forested ramp with a boot path up to the pass. From there the broad ridge can be followed by hiking low angle slabs to near the crest of the ridge and then following it to Dade Lake. This avoids the steep talus from Gem Lakes in exchange for easy walking on slabs and a bit of navigation. I'd not recommend this in the dark but in daylight route finding is straight forward. Aug 29, 2020