PRINT: Rock Climbing in Brogan Spire, Smith Rock

Brogan Spire

Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Home to a wide variety of climbs from a 4 star 5.6 multipitch outing (Cave Route)to a brand new 14.b (The Optomist) as well as a decent selection of routes in between.
Well worth the hike.

Getting There

Follow the trail past Koala Rock. and the Great Roof will be obvious with the spire above (see picture).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The approach to Brogan Spire was a little shorter in the 60's and early 70's. September 27, 1970.

Two unknown climbers on top of Brogan Spire and nearly full moon. (3-26-21)

Vic Madrid rapelling off Brogan Spire. Early 1980's.

Brogan Spire on a bluebird day

wahoo!

soloing on brogan

on the summit spire

View of Smith Rock State Park from the summit of Brogan Spire.

Climber on the summit of Brogan Spire above the Great Roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR

anyone know about the route just right of Beth Rodden's new 5.14? It starts with huge holds in huecos and is sort of half moon shaped, left then back right.
It's 11.b or so...?? Quite good. Apr 11, 2006

Mark D
Portland, OR

i haven't done this route, but it's called, pouches 11c. Apr 19, 2006

corvegas
the depths of oregon

That's not really Beth Rodden's new 5.14. That climb is actually called The Great Roof, which was climbed on aid in 1966 with many fewer bolts. Ethics at Smith were lost and bolts were added, not by Beth. This brought down the adventure level of a route that could be enjoyed by more people, still into the art of placing protection. Those bolts should be chopped. It should be freed when the natural protection readily available on that climb is used. May 15, 2006

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ

Is there really enough natural protection for The Optimist to go with natural protection? From the video it looked like Beth was using a lot of pin scars and not much else in that crack. May 20, 2006

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

If rappelling from the chains on the Cave Route side of the summit: (the first set encountered while on that route)
thread your ropes through the higher rap ring on the left bolt to avoid a heinously difficult rope pull/stuck rope. Nov 10, 2011