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Elevation: 6,009 ft 1,832 m
GPS: 35.8054, -106.14318
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 111,382 total · 490/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 6, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown
Warning Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Grotto is the premium area to climb in Diablo Canyon. It is a slot canyon trimmed out of the upper portion of the south wall. It is filled with large boulders interlaced with fairly lush (for NM) vegetation. While it runs NE to SW the north facing wall is much higher, keeping The Grotto shady for most of the day. The sun peeks through both ends of the canyon during the early morning and late afternoon respectively. However, during January, February, and March an unseasonably warm day is necessary for comfortable climbing.

Climbs in The Grotto range from 5.8 to 5.14a. The rock ranges from good to great with everything from long and steep to short and slabby. Lots of flat boulders provide spots to lounge, lunch, or both while keeping an eye on fellow climbers.

(Text written by Rick Bradshaw)

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the new trail (fall 2012) to Runway (Lower Tier). From Runway (Lower Tier), hike easy terrain west to the Grotto. The new trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall.

Alternatively, you can take the old, long-used but steeper, nastier, approach to the Grotto. For this, stay in the main arroyo past Winter Wall and past the Solar Cave and look for a decent trail in the dirt embankment on the left. Take this trail and wind your way up through talus and screen to the top.

74 Total Climbs

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Location: The Grotto Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Grotto

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight…
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 47
Evil Paradise
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 15
Guillotine Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 24
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 82
Affirmative Action
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 58
Bedeviled
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 33
Where the Wild Things Aren't
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 24
Better Late than Never
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Bush in a Blender
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Running with the Devil
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 26
The Book of Souls
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Muscle Crow
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
Where the World Ends
Trad, Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 15
Lucifer's Hammer Drill
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 12
Sin after Sin
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka T… Top of the Grotto (Oj…
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Evil Paradise Top of the Grotto (Oj…
 47
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Guillotine Crack Upper Tier of The Gr…
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo Top of the Grotto (Oj…
 24
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Affirmative Action Grotto Left (E Side)
 82
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bedeviled Grotto Left (E Side)
 58
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Where the Wild Things Aren't Grotto Right (W Side)
 33
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Better Late than Never Grotto Left (E Side)
 24
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Bush in a Blender Grotto Left (E Side)
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Running with the Devil Top of the Grotto (Oj…
 10
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Book of Souls Grotto Left (E Side)
 26
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Muscle Crow Grotto Left (E Side)
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Where the World Ends Grotto Right (W Side)
 10
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Lucifer's Hammer Drill Top of the Grotto (Oj…
 15
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Sin after Sin Grotto Right (W Side)
 12
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Grotto »

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