PRINT: Climbing in Colorado Springs, Colorado Springs

Colorado Springs

Colorado

Introduction

This is a work in progress

Colorado Springs is a mid-sized city located just east of the geographic center of the state of Colorado in the United States. It has a population of approximately 370,000 and is the third largest city in Colorado. At elevation 6,035 feet, it is situated near the base of one of the most famous American peaks, Pikes Peak (14,110'), on the east side of the Rocky Mountains. The capital of Colorado, Denver, is 68 miles to the north.

For climbers, the appeal of Colorado Springs is that it has many features of a modern urban area, such as parks, bike trails, urban open-area spaces, business and commerce, theatres and other entertainments. It was established as a posh resort community, and the tourist industry is strong and offers many activities and attractions. It is the number one destination for Colorado tourism. There are a number of military installations in the area, high-tech industry, and many Christian organizations and churches make their headquarters there.

If you are thinking of moving there, check out this link for Colorado Spring Stats.

Getting There

If you have problems finding Colorado Springs, perhaps you shouldn't go climbing. The Springs as locals call it is 70 miles south of Denver on I-25, at the base of Pikes Peak.

To help you get around the Springs, click on the Colorado Springs Map.

For out of town folks, there is a modest-sized, quiet airport located SE of town.

Resources

In the Springs go with La Casita (US 24 and 8th street as you get back into town, about a mile before I-25 is a pink, converted garage on your right) or Il Vicino (Downtown on Tejon between Colorado and Pikes Peak (local gear shop Mountain Chalet is just three blocks north).

Vic's brews their own beer, but suds are definitely also available at Kinfolks in Manitou. In case you got chased off the Pericle or Four Mile Dome, Kinfolks has conveniently combined bar and gear shop in one so you can replace your gear and stop your hands from shaking so.

If you need coffee in the morning to quell the shakes, hit Boulder St Roasters (Tejon next block north of Mountain Chalet) or Wooglins (Tejon just five blocks further north). Basically, everything you need is on Tejon. If climbing up on the Rampart range road or any of the outlying areas early morning coffee and monster dounuts can be had at the dounut mill in woodland park. It's located on the north side of US 24 about 1/2 way through town.

Between Garden of the Gods & Red Rocks Open Space, you can find a hearty meal at the Mason Jar near Colorado Ave & 30th St.

Weather

Note, this area is located at the foot of a 14,110 ft peak with plenty of foothills just to the west. Of note, you should be aware that weather can be dramatically different than that in its neighboring community just 70 miles to the north. You can use the NOAA website to check on forecasts.

Bats - conservation

See a bat on a route, give a shout. Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. If you see bats, and want to tell them, here is their email (climbersforbats@colostate.edu) and their website ( climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).

Climbers for Bat Conservation is a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. They are interested in finding bats because a new disease, called white-nose syndrome ( whitenosesyndrome.org/), has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation. If you see bats while climbing, please let them know by emailing them at climbersforbats@colostate.edu, or visiting their website to learn more ( climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).

Rob Schorr

Zoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program ( sites.warnercnr.colostate.e…)

Director, Climbers for Bat Conservation

Robert.schorr@colostate.edu

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Harvey T. Carter gets to be in the Garden forever.

Ed Pearsall following Tomorrowland (5.12d), Dome Rock State Park<br>
<br>
Photo by Richard Aschert

Ed Pearsall following Tomorrowland (5.12d), Dome Rock State Park Photo by Richard Aschert

Garden of the Gods "South Gateway Rock" in the sun.

Colorado Springs and Pike's Peak.

Me at the top on a 11d finger crack, Cascade.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob Powell

Does anyone have any beta on Barney's Dome? I hike up there last fall and it has a handful of beautiful lines. I'm sure they'be all been climbed, but it's obvious it sees very little traffic. Jul 21, 2007

Nelson
FT Carson

How do you get to that dome, Rob? Aug 17, 2007

Rob Powell

I botched it on the way up. I went up from the same road that access Ute pass boulders. I thought this would work well, but the trail dead ends at the saddle and then its a total bushwack. On the way out we found a trail that will lead you to the top of the Heizer trail. The Heizer trail starts in Cascade.
Walk up the main street for 100 yrds from the hwy 24 stop light. Turn left at the first street. Go a few hundred more yards and take your next 1st left. Walk up this to a sharp right hand switchback. The trail head leaves from the switch back on the left side of the road. Walk up the Heizer trail for about 45min- hour. You will pop over the top, drop down a little and then there is a fait trail that splits left and walks along a ridge (south east) all the way to Barney's dome. If you eventually hit a road, then you missed the left turn.
There's a big right hand dihedral that splits the entire north face. It looks to be 2-3 pitches and is capped with a pretty big roof (and not a lot of obvious gear at the roof if I recall. There is a faint climbers trail 20-30 ft below the base of the dome. Jun 28, 2008

abc	[Hide Comment] Jacob, both are true. You can pick up a permit at the visitor center and the chalk at Mt. Chalet. Aug 13, 2008

Amy Haessly

I am looking to catch a ride to Telluride sometime this week. Anyone out there headed that way? Jun 20, 2009

Andrew Caraballo
Milwaukie, OR

I was reading the guide Stewart Green put out about the Pike's Peak area, and he seemed pretty positive about Williams Canyon. How come it's not listed here? Is the climbing that chossy? Sep 15, 2009

Stewart M. Green

Williams Canyon is not everyone's cup of tea. It's adventure sport climbing at its finest! Be prepared for the finest choss in the Pikes Peak region. You got to love loose, flakey limestone with tottering pillars, removable handholds, and rotten rock to climb at Williams. Ian and I did 20 or more routes here. Even a big one on The Temple, a massive 200-foot overhanging wall. Bring a helmet and a sense of adventure...if the place cleaned up, some of the routes are a lot like American Fork in Utah. Sep 15, 2009

Andrew Caraballo
Milwaukie, OR

I made my way to the top of the Manitou incline today and found what seemed to me like some pretty awesome bouldering but no evidence anythings been climbed. The approach is insane, but I'm thinking of hauling my crash pad up there to start working and cleaning some problems. Has anyone had the same thoughts for this area? Sep 21, 2009

Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT

Yep, looked at it. I bet it's been done before. Everything has. Sep 21, 2009

Stewart M. Green

Yeah, the boulders and little cliffs on top of Mt Manitou and Rocky Mountain. I went up there a lot in the late 1970s and early 1980s with Steve Cheyney, Jim Dunn, Brian Teale, and few other guys. Bouldered our brains out on that great PP granite. Mark Hesse did some roped routes on the bigger stuff there. Harvey Carter also climbed up there too in the 1960s. We also did problems on the best trailside boulders on the hike up Barr Trail and along the Manitou watershed road above Ute Pass Boulders. In fact, there's an awesome splitter 5.12 finger crack up there on a block of granite. So like Phil says, it's been climbed on already. But the great thing is that, like so much rock in the PP region, you can climb and boulder and it all feels new...and that's a good thing! Oct 25, 2009

Ryan Flynn
Maple Valley, WA

A few important notices for climbers wishing to climbing in Colorado Springs:

The City of Colorado Springs requires every climber to register annually at the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center.

The use of chalk (with calcium carbonate) is prohibited, and a chalk substitute must be used instead.

I am not sure of the penalty for failure to comply with these regulations, but I am told it is a fine of around $500. For complete information please see the City of Colorado Springs Technical Rock Climbing Regulations and Guidelines springsgov.com/Page.aspx?Na… page. Apr 17, 2010

Anonymous User

I just got my $1200 camera (Sony A-350) stolen from Ute Valley. I don't know how the f%$k they got away with it. I wasn't more then 20ft away from it the whole time. If find the mother f^%ker who stole it, I'm going to jail with then. If you have any info, let me know. Fat cash reward! Apr 22, 2011

Jesse Morehouse
CO

My favorite part of the CO Spgs climbing experience is the reticent nature of the long time locals. I got one to remain nameless local to scan in a few hand drawn topos of some obscure multi-pitch areas, all of which had been copied so many times they are almost illegible. I had to almost promise my first born son and internet pinky promise to never post said topos on the web to get that info. Even published stuff for off-the beaten path routes is reminiscent of alpine climbing ("ascend the obvious couloir..." type stuff) including topos that don't seem to match reality. It is amazing that an area with so many talented climbers through the decades has remained obscure enough that as Stewart Green says, every ascent feels like an FA! Talk about a nonhomogeneous, local climbing culture we would all do well to respect. Keep it up, y'all! Aug 20, 2012

GarrisonH

Anyone know much about routes and boulders around Mt. Herman? I was doing some exploring recently and found some climbed lines. I have found minimal information online. Any reason not to further document and publicize this area? The boulders at least. Apr 3, 2013

Rob goldsmith

Hey all,
I am planning a trip with a couple of mates to the Springs around November for some climbing. There are some caveats for this trip. Firstly, I am from Australia, and secondly, I know no one from CO Springs area to climb with and/or to show us around whilst in the Springs. Can anyone help out with some local tips and hopefully some guidance whilst we are in your fair state?
Cheers,
Rob May 17, 2013

chadgoingup
Crested Butte

Hi there,

I'm coming out from Crested Butte to the Front Range. I'll be in the Springs tomorrow Sunday June 23. Looking to hit the rock all day. Trad, sport whatever's clever. Contact me if you wanna go.... Jun 22, 2013

Dirt Fly
Sioux Falls, SD

Hey guys, new to the area, looking for some pals to boulder with, climb with sport\top\lead. I have all my own gear. Male, 22, name's Matt. Mar 16, 2014

Carly K.

Taking a trip down to Garden of the Gods for the weekend. Know it's late season, but was hoping to find a good place to tent camp Saturday night. Any advice? Nov 20, 2014

Dan McCabe

My son and I were in Cheyenne Canyon on Crack Parallel. Apparently, these two guys ahead of us took issue with us climbing behind them and cussed out my 16 year old, while I was finishing the route. If that weren't enough, they raced to the bottom and stole some gear...but it wasn't ours! So, now you know who I am. Springs is a small place...we will meet up soon. Oct 11, 2015

Christopher Elliott

Headed to the springs tomorrow from Kansas to do some climbing. My wife is just getting comfortable leading 5.7-5.9 routes, and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for sport climbing in the area or places within an hour and a half of the springs. Thanks Jul 25, 2016

Steve Bachmeier

Hey all, is there any climbing close to the Springs and by "close," I mean like leave-work-at-4pm-and-have-several-hours-of-climbing-before-dark close? Thanks! Aug 24, 2017

Trisha Boudreau
Colorado Springs, Colorado

Looking to get outside to climb in the Springs or Shelf this week. I want to pop on some fun routes and meet someone new. Hit me up. Nov 26, 2017

Alexandra 000
77433

Climbing? I have a 3 week on, 3 week off (ish) schedule. Trad or sport. Or bouldering. Hmu ☆A Jan 9, 2018

saravalerious Valerious
Salt Lake City, UT

What is the best guidebook for the area? Jul 8, 2019

Bob Choss
Colorado Springs

I love to read about choss. Jul 21, 2020