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(b) North Face

California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock

Description

This is the lowest angle face of Tahquitz Rock and offers a mix of routes up to about six pitches in length. There are easy routes that follow long crack systems, and are mostly quite well protected. Some newer routes follow the slabs between crack systems.

 The rock on the lower part of this face is fairly good, but the upper part is rather loose. It's best to avoid climbing below another party on this face. 

The longer routes finish on the Northeast shoulder of the rock. Climb up from there on third class rock until you reach hiking terrain at a saddle southeast of the summit. From here, the shortest way back to the base of the face is the North Gully (3rd class). 

You can also take the trail from the saddle, going clockwise to Lunch Rock, and then continuing along the base of the rock to the North Face.

  • During the summer, this face gets sun much of the day. In the Spring and Summer, it gets a lot of shade.

Getting There

Take the North Face trail to the base, or take the main trail to Lunch Rock and traverse left along the base of the rock.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
● Elegant Arch
Trad 11 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
● Northeast Farce
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 279
● El Whampo
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
● El Grandote
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 3
● El Dorado
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 8
● El Monte
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
● Northeast Face East
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
● Partners in Crime
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 11
● Grace Slick
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
● Coup de Grace
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
● Science Friction
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 M1-2
 72
● Northeast Face West
Trad, Mixed, Ice 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 4
● Too Biased
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
● Hard Lark
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 M1-2
 19
● East Lark
Trad, Mixed, Ice 6 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI3 M1-2
 61
● West Lark
Trad, Mixed, Ice 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Elegant Arch
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 11 pitches
● Northeast Farce
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
● El Whampo
 279
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
● El Grandote
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
● El Dorado
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
● El Monte
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 4 pitches
● Northeast Face East
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
● Partners in Crime
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Grace Slick
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Coup de Grace
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
● Science Friction
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Northeast Face West
 72
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 M1-2 Trad, Mixed, Ice 5 pitches
● Too Biased
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
● Hard Lark
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
● East Lark
 19
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 M1-2 Trad, Mixed, Ice 6 pitches
● West Lark
 61
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI3 M1-2 Trad, Mixed, Ice 6 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

After some balancy face moves off the belay, Nathan Fitzhugh on the fun liebacks of the second pitch of El Grandote.
[Hide Photo] After some balancy face moves off the belay, Nathan Fitzhugh on the fun liebacks of the second pitch of El Grandote.
Tahquitz Rock overview, Idyllwild
[Hide Photo] Tahquitz Rock overview, Idyllwild
Nathan Fitzhugh at the start of El Grandote. Does not appear to get much traffic but is a fun climb.
[Hide Photo] Nathan Fitzhugh at the start of El Grandote. Does not appear to get much traffic but is a fun climb.
The Larks!
[Hide Photo] The Larks!
North Face of Tahquitz after a late spring snow storm!!!
[Hide Photo] North Face of Tahquitz after a late spring snow storm!!!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sarah Barron
Glendora, CA
[Hide Comment] There is a huge, loose boulder at the top of the exit gully for the Larks, at the western end of the North Face. I've attached 3 photos showing the boulder. This boulder is a feature that anyone exiting this gully will pull on for their exit. When we were climbing on Tuesday (8/22), the boulder rolled forward/down hill when weighted. The first 2 photos are taken from below, looking up at the rock. The 2nd photo is taken from above. Note the new separation of the dirt, at the base. That happened when we pulled on it. You can now see to the bottom of the route through that hole. In the photos, the 9.8 mm rope can be used for sizing perspective.
I've notified Nomad (Idyllwild), forestry & Mountain Project. Please share this post with anyone you think might be in that area. I'll update this post once I have confirmation that the boulder has been (safely!)
trundled.


mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?u…> mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?u…> mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?u…> Aug 25, 2017
Tradiban
[Hide Comment] Can't see the pics. How big is it? We don't really trundle up here. Do you think it's going to stay where it is or is easily pulled down? Aug 25, 2017
Tradiban
[Hide Comment] The boulder in question is gone, probably what got that guy in September :( Nov 10, 2017
Kristian And Marie
[Hide Comment] Park at the Upper parking lot, where the outhouses are located. The trail splits at the start. Hiker's trail is left. Take the unmarked right trail towards the fence, down to the creek, cross the creek, then back up. This will take you to the leftmost side of Tahquitz N Face. The trail splits into a Y. Looking uphill, the left trail is the North Gully descent, the right trail is to the base of the climb. You can stash your approach packs at the Y intersection. This is a much shorter approach compared parking at the Lower parking lot, going up to Lunch Rock, turning left, then skirting the base of the rock all the way to the leftmost side. Even if you park at the Lower parking lot, it is better and faster to walk up the road to the Upper lot and take the approach described above. Oct 2, 2021