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I-80 Corridor

California > Lake Tahoe

Description

Interstate 80 runs from San Francisco to New Jersey. From Sacramento in California's central valley to the Nevada border near Reno, it crosses most of the Sierra Nevada, including some of the earliest recorded Anglo American emigrant trails over infamous Donner Pass.

The northern Sierra Nevada is a vast and mostly untamed stretch of rocky hillsides and granite peaks. Bouldering is everywhere, and sport is plentiful. Trad routes can be found, both documented and wild. New rock is always just over the next ridge, and all you need is a little imagination and some forestry maps, and you can find the next climbing area in California.

Areas in the foothills may not be documented. A lot of climbable rock is found on private property, and also in public areas where local land managers don't believe that climbing is a reputable sport. Auburn State Recreation Area had a rocky history, but the administrators and climbing community built bridges there.

Truckee is the cultural hot spot. For gear, Tahoe Sports Hub and the Backcountry are all shops with a history in the area and contribute positively to the local mountain culture.

Elevations range from near sea level in the central valley itself, up to eight thousand of feet as the foothills rise to the heart of the mountain range. Checking the National Weather Service forecast for your exact destination is best for planning mountain days outdoors.

Low elevation crags can be scorching on summer afternoons, but become popular retreats from winter ice and snow. These include the Auburn area, where sport climbs and bouldering are had at Cave Valley (aka Auburn Quarry) and the Bar. Beginner friendly, mostly lowball, boulder problems are plentiful at Deer Creek Park in Rocklin.

Medium and high elevation rocks' seasonality depends heavily on current weather patterns, snow cover, and whether the cliff faces south towards the sun. But by summer time, most accessible crags are covered with climbers from around the world. Bouldering is everywhere in this area above about 5,500 feet in elevation, where the mid elevation pine forests thin out. Donner Summit has the highest concentration of established trad routes, and the tallest cliffs. Indian Springs, Bowman Valley and some sections of Donner are popular sport climbing areas.

Although Interstate 80 continue through the Truckee River Canyon east of the town of Truckee, all crags between Truckee and the Nevada border en route to Reno are in the TRC area now, since they're relatively close together, while this I-80 area contains bouldering parks as far west as Rocklin.

Getting There

Interstate 80 in California is reached from most other regions through Sacramento from the west, or from Reno to the east. Many other highways, surface streets and dirt roads connect to it. See specific crags for directions.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The view from the bottom of the dam of Atomic.
[Hide Photo] The view from the bottom of the dam of Atomic.
Deep water soloing on a great boulder problem at the Emeralds. Probably a V1. Great holds and fun movement with a safe and deep landing (always test the water before DWS or cliff jumping).<br>
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For those curious on how to get to this swimming hole /problem:<br>
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Take the trail across the road from the parking lot downstream along the river for about 1/3 mile. You will see the first swimming hole pictured above on your left. Scramble down the third class terrain to get to it. There are additional places to jump as you go down river.
[Hide Photo] Deep water soloing on a great boulder problem at the Emeralds. Probably a V1. Great holds and fun movement with a safe and deep landing (always test the water before DWS or cliff jumping). For t…
Elizabeth Scott, age 12 setting up for the thin moves to the horizontal
[Hide Photo] Elizabeth Scott, age 12 setting up for the thin moves to the horizontal
another photo of the handlebar boulder
[Hide Photo] another photo of the handlebar boulder
Mike Carville on the Porn Star .12b. Larry Land, Bowman Lake, CA. photo: jim thornburg
[Hide Photo] Mike Carville on the Porn Star .12b. Larry Land, Bowman Lake, CA. photo: jim thornburg
Negativity Cave, Emeralds. CA.
[Hide Photo] Negativity Cave, Emeralds. CA.
Alex Honnold on Invisible Flying Gargoyles
[Hide Photo] Alex Honnold on Invisible Flying Gargoyles
Sanam on Rock n Rolla .9. Candy Land, Bowman Valley, CA. photo: jim thornburg
[Hide Photo] Sanam on Rock n Rolla .9. Candy Land, Bowman Valley, CA. photo: jim thornburg
FA- Nick Muehlhausen<br>
Riding around and lichen it- V8
[Hide Photo] FA- Nick Muehlhausen Riding around and lichen it- V8
Mark Hudon climbing at Donner, 1979.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Mark Hudon climbing at Donner, 1979. Photo by Blitzo.
Mark Hudon FA of Babylon<br>
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Credit: Mark Hudon
[Hide Photo] Mark Hudon FA of Babylon Credit: Mark Hudon
On the first ascent after many days scrubbing, bolting, and clearing loose rock.
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Photo by Michael Sirianni.
[Hide Photo] On the first ascent after many days scrubbing, bolting, and clearing loose rock. Photo by Michael Sirianni.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] "Outdoor gear resources are plentiful and usually affordable in both Sacramento and Reno. Truckee, the closest large town to the Sierra crest, naturally has prices adjusted for their real estate and tourism."

This piece of "advice" is both untrue and unnecessary. Compare the REI or climbing shop prices in Sac or Reno with those of any backcountry/climbing shop and you'll see that they are the exact same except for during sale periods. In addition, it's the locals that work at these shops that have knowledge and pass it on to customers whereas most of those shop employees in Sac and Reno have no clue. I think this should be removed or changed.

Edit to include some shops: Alpenglow Sports, Tahoe Sports Hub, and The Backcountry, are all great shops with a history in the area and contribute positively to the local mountain culture. Oct 28, 2017