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Middle Section Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Middle Section

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Blowin in the Wind S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Breakfast Before Dessert TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
	C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Good Action S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hump Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Karl's Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Oogie Boogie Boo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13
	Psycho Killer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sorcerer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Stoned Jester, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Thin Ice (variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Tom Thumb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Twin Cracks T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

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Elevation:	6,723 ft	2,049 m
GPS:	34.62908, -112.56665 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	122,071 total · 533/month
Shared By:	Greg Opland on Jan 31, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Granite Mountain is closed between February 1st and July 15th for peregrine falcon nesting!

More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…

Description

The Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.

This separation was originally established by Jim Waugh in his 1982 Granite Mountain guide. I may try to break this up a bit more for ease of finding routes later.

Getting There

Access for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Section

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 131 ● The Classic Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 28 ● Green Savior Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 109 ● Magnolia Thunderpussy Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 49 ● Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 43 ● Said and Done Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 54 ● Reunion Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 41 ● Kingpin Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 50 ● The Slammer Jam Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 68 ● Candyland Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 22 ● The Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux) Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 29 ● Coatimundi Whiteout Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 21 ● Help Me Mr. Wizard Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 12 ● Twin Cracks Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 7 ● The Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU) Trad 3 pitches
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c 6 ● A Bridge Across Forever (aka The… Trad 2 pitches