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(e) South Face

California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock

Description

The South Face has a longer and trickier approach than other parts of Suicide Rock. However, it has a nice selection of one and two pitch routes. It is in the sun after early morning, and therefore can be a good place to climb in cool weather (even mid-winter).

Getting There

There are two common approaches. One is to hike up the large gully to the left of the Sunshine Face. When the terrain steepens, scramble up near the left side of the gully, scramble through a tunnel, and emerge on walking terrain at the right end of the South Face. The alternative is to hike around to the right side of the rock, then left all the way to the top of the South Face, and finally do a 70 foot rappel down to where the tunnel ends.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Short Story
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Twilight Delight
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Midnight Sun
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 3
Hell's Angel
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Dark Angel
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
Archangel
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Hades
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Knocking on Heaven's Door
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Palm Sunday
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Disco Jesus
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 1
Judazz
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Crucifiction
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 1
Christ on a Cracker
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Picante
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Miscalculation
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 1
Its a Kind of Magic
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
It's a Mayracole
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 1
12b Or Not 12b
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
10b or not 10b
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Spring Cleaning
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Minuet
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Major
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 9
Minor
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Orange Roughy
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Short Story
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Twilight Delight
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Midnight Sun
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Hell's Angel
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Dark Angel
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Archangel
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Hades
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad 2 pitches
Knocking on Heaven's Door
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Palm Sunday
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Disco Jesus
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Judazz
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, TR
Crucifiction
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Christ on a Cracker
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Picante
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Miscalculation
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Its a Kind of Magic
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
It's a Mayracole
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
12b Or Not 12b
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
10b or not 10b
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Spring Cleaning
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Minuet
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Major
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Minor
 9
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Orange Roughy
 1
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Donno en route to the South Face
[Hide Photo] Donno en route to the South Face
The sunny South Face, Suicide Rock
[Hide Photo] The sunny South Face, Suicide Rock