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(u) Red Wall

Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The Red Wall has some of Smith's best multipitch moderates as well as a few classic tuft crimpfests. It is east facing and gets morning sun. The rock quality is generally good for Smith.

Getting There

To approach cross the bridge and follow the trail up and right (north) until you get to the reddish colored rock. Allow 30 minutes from the car.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Titanium Jag
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Bill's Flake
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Finger Puppet
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 173
Phantasmagoria
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 111
Orgasmophoria
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 138
Pop Art
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 274
Dances with Clams
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 76
Bay of Pigs
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 74
Animal Farm
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 74
Commie Pinkos
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 430
Dirty Pinkos
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
A Stroke of Brilliance
Trad, Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 369
Super Slab
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 9
Amphetamine Grip
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 243
Papillion
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 127
Gulag Archipelago
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Helter Skelter Direct
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 76
Ride The Lightning
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Fingers of Fate
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 24
Sole Survivor
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 199
Lets Face It
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 52
Peking
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 318
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitc…
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Straight Outta' Peking
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Burma Buttress
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 309
Moscow
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 156
Breakdown in Paradise
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Havana
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
I Almost Died
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Flex
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Titanium Jag
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Bill's Flake
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Finger Puppet
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Phantasmagoria
 173
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Orgasmophoria
 111
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pop Art
 138
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dances with Clams
 274
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Bay of Pigs
 76
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Animal Farm
 74
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Commie Pinkos
 74
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Dirty Pinkos
 430
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
A Stroke of Brilliance
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Super Slab
 369
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Amphetamine Grip
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 3 pitches
Papillion
 243
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Gulag Archipelago
 127
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport 4 pitches
Helter Skelter Direct
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Ride The Lightning
 76
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Fingers of Fate
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Sole Survivor
 24
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Lets Face It
 199
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Peking
 52
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half…
 318
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Straight Outta' Peking
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Burma Buttress
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Moscow
 309
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Breakdown in Paradise
 156
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Havana
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
I Almost Died
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Flex
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Red Wall before the access trails. June 1977.
[Hide Photo] Red Wall before the access trails. June 1977.
Catching the evening views near the top of Moscow
[Hide Photo] Catching the evening views near the top of Moscow
Red Wall as seen from the Wolf Tree Trail
[Hide Photo] Red Wall as seen from the Wolf Tree Trail
Red Wall topo
[Hide Photo] Red Wall topo
red wall
[Hide Photo] red wall
Shattered Amphitheter between Super Slab and Papillion
[Hide Photo] Shattered Amphitheter between Super Slab and Papillion
Shirley seconding Gone With The Flake.
[Hide Photo] Shirley seconding Gone With The Flake.
Red wall with climbers on Phantasmagoria and Dances with Clams
[Hide Photo] Red wall with climbers on Phantasmagoria and Dances with Clams
Topped out on Red Wall to see this!
[Hide Photo] Topped out on Red Wall to see this!
Looking down from near the top of Red Wall.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from near the top of Red Wall.
Paper Tiger - view down from near the top.
[Hide Photo] Paper Tiger - view down from near the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Would totally recommend wearing a helmet in this area. Or always when standing under a route. In 2 days I saw 2 separate rock fall incidents last weekene, 1 of which would have absolutely killed a woman and an man with his dog if not for missing by a few feet. All melon sized rock. May 30, 2014
Kevin Piarulli
Redmond, OR
[Hide Comment] The Red Wall is a great summer crag with a quick approach, great rock and position, and shade from early afternoon on.

Rappel beta for any routes topping out the left side of the wall (Titanium Jag, Orgasmagoria, Bay of Pigs, Stroke of Brilliance, Super Slab, Panama Red, Amphetamine Grip):

Walk to the right side of the ledge on top of the wall to rappel anchors next to a cave with a cairn at head height.

2 x 70m ropes: Rap straight the way to the ground. Be sure to get away from the wall at the bottom and do a good hard pull.

2 x 60m ropes: Rap 2 ropes to the big ledge atop Super Slab's first pitch. There are a few different sets of rap rings, rappel one rope to the ground on either one.

1 x 70m rope: Make a short 30' rap and swing right to another anchor at a stance(P2 anchor for Dirty Pinkos) Two more raps to the ground.

1 x 60m rope: Maybe possible same as for 70m with a short easy-ish downclimb above the big ledge. Aug 11, 2017
[Hide Comment] Whatever happened to Ho Chi Minh Trail? That was the joke: back in the day, Peking was politically left of Moscow, and Ho Chi Minh Trail even further left...as the routes were physically. It was in both the Jeff Thomas 1978 & Alan Watts 1992 guides. Re-named when freed? Dec 1, 2020