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Elevation: 11,226 ft 3,422 m
GPS: 45.3733, -121.69569
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

Description Suggest change

Mt. Hood is Oregon's tallest peak and is one of the most popular alpine summits in the world. This iconic mountain lies 70 miles east of Portland and is part of the Cascade Range. Glaciers lie on all sides.

Home to multiple ski areas and a National Forest, Mt. Hood receives a huge amount of use from outdoor enthusiasts all year. It provides the closest alpine climbing to Portland, as well as the closest skiing.

Getting There Suggest change

The direct route from Portland is easiest: Take I-84 to the Wood Village exit, take a right, and drive through Gresham and Sandy on Hwy. 26. Government Camp is the closest town to the mountain.

An alternate route takes I-84 East from Portland to Hood River, and then the Mount Hood Highway (Hwy. 35) South to join up with Hwy. 26.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Hood

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
AI1 Easy Snow PG13
 315
South Side Route
Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI3+ Mod. Snow
 26
North Face Right Gully
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
AI1 Mod. Snow
 57
Leuthold Couloir
Ice, Snow, Alpine
AI2 Mod. Snow PG13
 8
Sandy Glacier Headwall
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 31
Cooper Spur
Trad, Snow, Alpine
AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13
 40
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) -…
Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
 6
Ravine
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Mod. Snow
 14
Sunshine Route
Snow, Alpine
AI3 Steep Snow
 37
Reid Glacier Headwall
Ice, Snow, Alpine
AI2-3 Mod. Snow
 10
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) -…
Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
AI3 Steep Snow R
 6
Yocum Ridge
Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI4 M4+ PG13
 6
Black Spider - Fric-Amos
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow
 8
Eliot Glacier Headwall
Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
 22
Wy'East
Snow, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI3 M3-4 R
 4
West Ridge
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Side Route S Side
 315
AI1 Easy Snow PG13 Ice, Snow, Alpine
North Face Right Gully N Side
 26
WI3+ Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Leuthold Couloir W Side
 57
AI1 Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Sandy Glacier Headwall W Side
 8
AI2 Mod. Snow PG13 Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Cooper Spur N Side
 31
Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (D… S Side
 40
AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13 Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Ravine N Side
 6
WI3 M4 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Sunshine Route N Side
 14
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Reid Glacier Headwall W Side
 37
AI3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (D… S Side
 10
AI2-3 Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Yocum Ridge W Side
 6
AI3 Steep Snow R Ice, Snow, Alpine
Black Spider - Fric-Amos E Side
 6
WI4 M4+ PG13 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Eliot Glacier Headwall N Side
 8
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Wy'East E Side
 22
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
West Ridge Illumination Rock
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI3 M3-4 R Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Hood »

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