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Mt. Whitney

California > High Sierra > 14 - Whitney & Surrou…
Warning Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year DetailsDrop down

Description

Want to climb the highest peak in the lower 48? You're not alone. While the permit process is a major hassle, the crowds are thin (until you summit), and the granite is as fine as it gets.

Most climbs are about 1000 feet tall on the east face that gets shady by afternoon. Storms can brew over on the west side and give you quite a surprise.

There are two non-technical ways to the summit: the Whitney trail, a long slog up an easy walking trail, and the Mountaineers Route, a steep gully filled with loose rock, which is the usual descent route for climbers.

There's a decent campground at the end of the road, near the trailhead. You must have a permit to camp anywhere beyond that, and they're not easy to get. Call 760-873-2483 or go to the forest service's website. Unless you're doing the Whitney Trail, you want a permit for the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.

Getting There

Drive up the Whitney portal at about 8,300 feet. Lots of parking and bear boxes, where you need to leave anything with an odor that you're not bringing, including toiletries.

Most people spend the night at either Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,300 feet) or Iceberg Lake (12,600 feet). Iceberg is the way to go if you have the time. Incredible views of the mountain (and most routes), clear water right in front of you, and the climbing starts just a little ways up the scree slope from your campsite.

Getting there is tough and it's quite easy to get off route. I recommend buying the supertopo and follow the excellent instructions there.

The hike can get really hot. Start early (dawn) and you'll get to a campsite by lunch, have time to rest up and scope the route.

North Fork Permit Beta
Visit here for permit application: https://www.recreation.gov/permits/233260

2019 SEASON NOTE: No walk-up day use permits for the Whitney Zone including the North Fork.
All day use permits for the Whitney Zone are now only reservable online, at the URL listed above. As of May 30 2019 - be aware that there are open spaces up until about June 14th, then there are no open spaces available until October 22nd.

North Fork Trail Beta
Trail begins off the main Whitney Trail, and is signed, follow the north side of the creek until you finally cross to the south past some very large boulders looming on the south side. The trail will pass rightwards beneath a large slab as it heads to a creek crossing to once again get to the north side and very soon afterwards the Ebersbacher Ledges, which follow a ramp eastwards, over an exposed step then back west to a treed terrace, from there the trail stays north of the creek up to Lower Boy Scout Lake. Cross the outlet and follow switchbacks up a large scree field through some very large boulders, and brush up to the sweeping slabs coming down from Upper Boy Scout Lake, which you don't need to reach because above the slabs there's a rough slope which leads you into the valley below the needles Day and Keeler (one of the most spectacular spots in the Lower 48). Traverse the north slope upwards until a loose and wet weakness/wide gully deposits you at the boulder field of Iceberg Lake.



(Mid slabby section of trail not shown)

Routes from Left to Right

4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 6
Happy Cowboy (Whitney Edge Trave…
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 3
SouthWest Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
SouthWest Edge
Trad, Alpine
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 1
If At First…
Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
Left Wing Extremist
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
Direct East Face
Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2+
 11
Hairline
Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13
 1
Hairline Free
Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
The Great Book
Trad, Alpine 19 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 230
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 528
East Buttress
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
North Face
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow
 252
The Mountaineer's Route
Snow, Alpine
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 8
Cardiovascular Seizure
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Mod. Snow
 52
The Mount Whitney Trail
Snow, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 1
Our Own Devices
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Happy Cowboy (Whitney Edge…
 6
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
SouthWest Ridge
 3
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
SouthWest Edge
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
If At First…
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
Left Wing Extremist
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Direct East Face
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
Hairline
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2+ Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
Hairline Free
 1
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
The Great Book
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 19 pitches
East Face
 230
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
East Buttress
 528
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
North Face
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
The Mountaineer's Route
 252
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Cardiovascular Seizure
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Mount Whitney Trail
 52
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Our Own Devices
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mt. Whitney and Keeler in the alpine glow. August '03.
[Hide Photo] Mt. Whitney and Keeler in the alpine glow. August '03.
Sun setting behind Mt. Whitney from the approach to Iceberg lake.
[Hide Photo] Sun setting behind Mt. Whitney from the approach to Iceberg lake.
Mt. Whitney from the Russell-Carillon saddle - late October 2005
[Hide Photo] Mt. Whitney from the Russell-Carillon saddle - late October 2005
Whitney and Keeler from the drive to Whitney Portal.
[Hide Photo] Whitney and Keeler from the drive to Whitney Portal.
coming down the mountaineer's route
[Hide Photo] coming down the mountaineer's route
Whitney massif
[Hide Photo] Whitney massif
Early rays of light on Whitney
[Hide Photo] Early rays of light on Whitney
Mt. Whitney.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Mt. Whitney. Photo by Blitzo.
Duke on the approach nearing Iceberg Lake with Keeler and Whitney in the background.
[Hide Photo] Duke on the approach nearing Iceberg Lake with Keeler and Whitney in the background.
Mt Whitney Backcountry
[Hide Photo] Mt Whitney Backcountry
Jodi Levine and Arin Trook descend from Iceberg Lake after a trip up the Mountaineer's Route (January 1, 2001).
[Hide Photo] Jodi Levine and Arin Trook descend from Iceberg Lake after a trip up the Mountaineer's Route (January 1, 2001).
The Whitney crest in the clouds
[Hide Photo] The Whitney crest in the clouds

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] You can easily (well, maybe not easily) do the East Face, East Butt, or Mountaineer's Route in a day. IF (big if) you know the approach to Iceberg Lake. You'll be doing it in the dark. Early season the creek is high and you'll be crossing it. The trail may be running with water. You will get wet. You may get soaked.

Like the man said, buy the Supertaco. The directions are excellent. Scope the approach in daylight if you've never done it. Jan 30, 2006
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Don't take the mountaineer's route too lightly. I climbed the route on the first day of summer last year thinking I could do it pretty fast but found snow most of the way above treeline. Post holing sucked a lot of energy out of me on the descent but still managed to finish the route in 11.5 hours. It is a good idea to find out what current conditions are before climbing. Crampons and axe are necessary early in the season. Mar 19, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
[Hide Comment] If you're going to do it in a day (perhaps because you couldn't get a permit) then yes, intimate knowledge of the North Fork approach and the selected route is mandatory - altitude conditioning is also mandatory. Don't forget to pack out your puke. Nov 19, 2007
Scott Rice
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] East Face to the top of the washboards. Direct East Face to the top of the PeeWee. East Buttress to the summit. 7 hr 20 min car to car. Direct makes for a TERRIFYING solo!! Aug 25, 2012
Christine Spang
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] Just got back from spending 5 days camped at Iceberg Lake. There is currently NO snow crossing the trail between Whitney Portal and Upper Boy Scout Lake. There is still a significant amount of snow to cross between Upper Boy Scout Lake and Iceberg Lake, but unless you're doing it really early morning, it'll be fairly soft due to warm weather. Iceberg Lake is starting to melt out and you can fetch water from it, though be careful as the border of the lake is still a bit unclear. The Mountaineer's route is still mostly covered in snow but again will often be soft due to warm temps and the fact that it gets morning sun. The sure of foot may be able to get away with microspikes and a trekking pole rather than full crampons+ice axe for approaching the climbs and descending the Mountaineer's route.

Creeks are high and the snow continues to recede quickly—have fun and be safe out there! Jul 9, 2017
Connor McCullough
Jackson, WY
[Hide Comment] We camped at Iceberg lake for a week in August. We climbed the East Buttress, East Face, Mithral Dihedral, and Fishhook Arete (On Mount Russell). Each of these routes are all time! If you can get a week up here it's sooo worth it!

Made a video of our climbs here:
youtube.com/watch?v=Uayn5M_… Nov 23, 2021