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Mt. Whitney Rock Climbing
Routes in Mt. Whitney
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Cardiovascular Seizure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Direct East Face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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East Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Great Book, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hairline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2+ |
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Hairline Free T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Happy Cowboy (Whitney Edge Traverse) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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If At First… T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Left Wing Extremist T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mount Whitney Trail, The Mod. Snow |
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Mountaineer's Route, The 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Our Own Devices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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SouthWest Edge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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SouthWest Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Elevation: | 14,473 ft | 4,411 m |
| GPS: |
36.57844, -118.29229 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 273,078 total · 1,186/month | |
| Shared By: | Nick Wilder on Jan 23, 2006 | |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year
Details
Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.
Description
Want to climb the highest peak in the lower 48? You're not alone. While the permit process is a major hassle, the crowds are thin (until you summit), and the granite is as fine as it gets.
Most climbs are about 1000 feet tall on the east face that gets shady by afternoon. Storms can brew over on the west side and give you quite a surprise.
There are two non-technical ways to the summit: the Whitney trail, a long slog up an easy walking trail, and the Mountaineers Route, a steep gully filled with loose rock, which is the usual descent route for climbers.
There's a decent campground at the end of the road, near the trailhead. You must have a permit to camp anywhere beyond that, and they're not easy to get. Call 760-873-2483 or go to the forest service's website. Unless you're doing the Whitney Trail, you want a permit for the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.
Most climbs are about 1000 feet tall on the east face that gets shady by afternoon. Storms can brew over on the west side and give you quite a surprise.
There are two non-technical ways to the summit: the Whitney trail, a long slog up an easy walking trail, and the Mountaineers Route, a steep gully filled with loose rock, which is the usual descent route for climbers.
There's a decent campground at the end of the road, near the trailhead. You must have a permit to camp anywhere beyond that, and they're not easy to get. Call 760-873-2483 or go to the forest service's website. Unless you're doing the Whitney Trail, you want a permit for the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.
Getting There
Drive up the Whitney portal at about 8,300 feet. Lots of parking and bear boxes, where you need to leave anything with an odor that you're not bringing, including toiletries.
Most people spend the night at either Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,300 feet) or Iceberg Lake (12,600 feet). Iceberg is the way to go if you have the time. Incredible views of the mountain (and most routes), clear water right in front of you, and the climbing starts just a little ways up the scree slope from your campsite.
Getting there is tough and it's quite easy to get off route. I recommend buying the supertopo and follow the excellent instructions there.
The hike can get really hot. Start early (dawn) and you'll get to a campsite by lunch, have time to rest up and scope the route.
North Fork Permit Beta
Visit here for permit application: https://www.recreation.gov/permits/233260
2019 SEASON NOTE: No walk-up day use permits for the Whitney Zone including the North Fork.
All day use permits for the Whitney Zone are now only reservable online, at the URL listed above. As of May 30 2019 - be aware that there are open spaces up until about June 14th, then there are no open spaces available until October 22nd.
North Fork Trail Beta
Trail begins off the main Whitney Trail, and is signed, follow the north side of the creek until you finally cross to the south past some very large boulders looming on the south side. The trail will pass rightwards beneath a large slab as it heads to a creek crossing to once again get to the north side and very soon afterwards the Ebersbacher Ledges, which follow a ramp eastwards, over an exposed step then back west to a treed terrace, from there the trail stays north of the creek up to Lower Boy Scout Lake. Cross the outlet and follow switchbacks up a large scree field through some very large boulders, and brush up to the sweeping slabs coming down from Upper Boy Scout Lake, which you don't need to reach because above the slabs there's a rough slope which leads you into the valley below the needles Day and Keeler (one of the most spectacular spots in the Lower 48). Traverse the north slope upwards until a loose and wet weakness/wide gully deposits you at the boulder field of Iceberg Lake.
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(Mid slabby section of trail not shown)
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Most people spend the night at either Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,300 feet) or Iceberg Lake (12,600 feet). Iceberg is the way to go if you have the time. Incredible views of the mountain (and most routes), clear water right in front of you, and the climbing starts just a little ways up the scree slope from your campsite.
Getting there is tough and it's quite easy to get off route. I recommend buying the supertopo and follow the excellent instructions there.
The hike can get really hot. Start early (dawn) and you'll get to a campsite by lunch, have time to rest up and scope the route.
North Fork Permit Beta
Visit here for permit application: https://www.recreation.gov/permits/233260
2019 SEASON NOTE: No walk-up day use permits for the Whitney Zone including the North Fork.
All day use permits for the Whitney Zone are now only reservable online, at the URL listed above. As of May 30 2019 - be aware that there are open spaces up until about June 14th, then there are no open spaces available until October 22nd.
North Fork Trail Beta
Trail begins off the main Whitney Trail, and is signed, follow the north side of the creek until you finally cross to the south past some very large boulders looming on the south side. The trail will pass rightwards beneath a large slab as it heads to a creek crossing to once again get to the north side and very soon afterwards the Ebersbacher Ledges, which follow a ramp eastwards, over an exposed step then back west to a treed terrace, from there the trail stays north of the creek up to Lower Boy Scout Lake. Cross the outlet and follow switchbacks up a large scree field through some very large boulders, and brush up to the sweeping slabs coming down from Upper Boy Scout Lake, which you don't need to reach because above the slabs there's a rough slope which leads you into the valley below the needles Day and Keeler (one of the most spectacular spots in the Lower 48). Traverse the north slope upwards until a loose and wet weakness/wide gully deposits you at the boulder field of Iceberg Lake.
(Mid slabby section of trail not shown)
Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Whitney
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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