Mt Craig Climbing

There is a good reason this area has been overlooked: location. To find this area, head North on US 40 over Berthoud Pass to Granby. Head NE on US 34 to Grand Lake. Follow the West Portal Rd. to the West Portal/East Inlet Trailhead. The approach starts as an easy walk that follows an obvious trail along the northern edge of the East Inlet. After about 15 minutes, the trail meets a meadow which is one of the only places where the routes can be spotted (see beta photo). The trail then slowly climbs for 3 miles to reach a great viewpoint then drops down a staired stretch to the bottom of the valley. At this point, the trail veers north and climbs up again along the base of Mt. Craig. About 3 miles in as the trail turns to the north, a 2 pitch swath of yellow-tinted ice can occasionally be seen on the flank of Mt. Craig at the base of an obvious, west-facing drainage. Near this point, the trail intermittently parallels two streams as it heads north. A couple hundred yards past the second bridge, but well before 'the privy', cut off trail and contour up the base of the mountain heading south for about 400 yards. Eventually you will come to a large open slide path 200 yards below the base of the climb. The final approach can be exhausting through snow pack that can be chest deep.

Further up the trail, about 4.5 miles from the trailhead is 'the privy'. From this point, four of the best climbs are only a few hundred yards to the southeast but are hidden by a prominent rock band. Follow the trail from 'the privy' as it heads south for 150 yards until the trail cuts back sharply to the north. At this point, continue hiking off trail to the south, contouring up to and along the rock band, (see beta photo) through a short, narrow gully to an open boulderfield. Suddenly, the ice becomes visible in a hidden ampitheater. Just past the east end of Lone Pine Lake a wide, 350 foot WI3+ climb can be seen. This obvious, north-facing climb boasts the easiest of all the approaches, but the equality of the ice can be deceptively challenging. Across the valley along the SW slopes of Andrews Peak, another dozen or more ice lines can be spotted, several up to 4 pitches in length. Unfortunately these are fleeting as most are sundrenched in blue skies. On a good day, the approach will take three hours. Later in the season, the trail may be impossible to follow and approach times can easily be doubled. Snowshoes are a must and an overnight stay at the Gray Jay group site is highly recommended. For late fall & winter camping, you must obtain a backcountry permit from the Kauwenechee Visitor Center. 970.586.1513 or 970.586.1521. These are free after Nov. 1. After the long hike out, reward yourself with a bucket of peanuts and a burger at Sagebrush on mainstreet in Grand Lake or per dana eyde: reward yourself with some Jamaican food at the Rum Kitchen on mainstreet in Grand Lake.