Berlin Wall Rock Climbing
GPS: |
40.00752, -105.4056 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 17,292 total · 75/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Nov 11, 2005 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
From Rick Vermeil: they have finished construction on the Boulder Falls project, and it has been open to tourists and climbers for at least a couple years now. They have legitimized the climber access trail with signage to go up and over the barriers they created to prevent erosion on the west side of the canyon.
The Boulder Falls Trail was be closed to the public since the 2013 floods for a few years. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail was off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail were closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the landowner. Previously, climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon were trespassing.
Fortunately, with great work and cooperation, this situation seems to have been resolved peacefully.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This particular rock is sometimes considered part of the Wall of Winter Warmth (WWW). It lies in a nook just left of WWW & right of Krishna. The older routes (put up in the 1980s) tend to be runout and steep; the recent sport routes are well protected. This entry was done to help with organization of the Lower Dream Canyon section.
Descent: rappel 90' from the top and then downclimb the approach gully. The newer sport routes all have lowering/rap anchors.
L->R:
A. Walpurgisnacht, 11-, 1p, 80', bolt & gear.
B. Dachau, 11- or 11+, 70', retrobolts, originally 1 bolt & gear.
C. Iron Curtain, 10+, 1p.
D1. Fall of the Wall, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
D2. East Germany, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.
E? Stalingrad, 11 X.
E2? Waterboarding, 12, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Interrogation, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. Eastern Promises, 13, 1p, 75', bolts.
H. Blitkrieg, 11 R, bolt & gear.
I. Weinachtsfest, 11 R, gear.
J. Himmelbruch, 10+ R, gear.
K. Checkpoint Bravo (AKA Himmelbruch), 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
L. Checkpoint Charlie, 10, 1p, 75', gear.
Getting There
It may be possible to approach this buttress from Upper Dream Canyon.
Per topher donahue: there is now a 2 bolt rap anchor for the approach gully. Scramble 50 feet down gully (30 feet below the old single bolt rap anchor), and traverse a big ledge to the east to an anchor. A 60m rope just reaches easy ledges, but be sure to knot the end of the rope.
Classic Climbing Routes at Berlin Wall
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