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PCP Pinnacle

Colorado > Gunnison > Taylor Canyon

Description

Across the road from Rosy Lane Campground look up. You will see an obvious pinnacle with a 165ft 5.9 splitter up the center that mirrors the Rosy Lane buttress.

Climbs from left to right are:

11+ Ecstacy (5.7R start) bolts and 1 #0.5 Camalot. 1 60m.
9+ PCP crack (5.9+ to the ledge and 10c R to the summit. Trad, 2 60m.
11 Free Base Face (crack start to bolted roof) long pitch. Mixed, 2 60m.
11 Angel Dust Arete (shares start w/ FBF then to arete). Mixed, 2 60m.

All of these routes are very high quality, sustained pitches.

Getting There

Across the road from the Rosy Lane Campground. Park on right side pullout not in the campground.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
● Crystal Method
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 1
● Ecstasy
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
● Angel Dust
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 1
● Angel Duster (AKA Angel Dust Arete)
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Crystal Method
 11
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Ecstasy
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
● Angel Dust
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Angel Duster (AKA Angel Dus…
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Side view of the pinnacle.
[Hide Photo] Side view of the pinnacle.
PCP Pinnacle, 5.9.
[Hide Photo] PCP Pinnacle, 5.9.
Looking up Angel Dust. This sucker is really hard to photograph!<br>
[Hide Photo] Looking up Angel Dust. This sucker is really hard to photograph!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

phil broscovak
[Hide Comment] The tower is indeed called PCP pinnacle, but the route in the picture is actually called "Angel Dust". John Rosholt and I put up this route in the later half of the Seventies. I would consider this a must do Taylor Canyon route of high quality. Just remember the routes on the east side of the Taylor River are invariably looser than the climbs on the west side. So be careful out there. Jan 17, 2004