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Universal Crag Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Universal Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	X Marks The Start S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Palm Pilot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Fighting Irish S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Dream Machine S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Equator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Switchback T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Magna Headwall S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unsorted Routes:
	Dozey Brat V9-10 7C+
	Dr. West, Millionaire V7+ 7A+ R
	Rapid Eye Movement V6 7A PG13

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GPS:	40.0102, -105.4066 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Jimmie Redo on Oct 29, 2003
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Description

This is one of the steeper walls in Dream Canyon. Seven routes grace this crag two of witch are projects. 5.11 is the easiest climb then mid 5.12 then .13+. All are relatively short compared to the other Dream routes so all you need is one rope and about 12 draws.

L->R:

A. X Marks The Start, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Palm Pilot, 13+, 1p, 40' bolts.
C. Fighting Irish, 12+, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Summarete, 13?, 1p, bolts.
E. Dream Machine, 12, 1p, 75', bolts.
F. Equator, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Switchback , 11-, 1p, gear.
H. Magna Headwall, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Cum Laude Overhang, 12, 1p, bolts.
J. Temptress, 9, 1p, gear.

Getting There

This crag is downriver and across the river from "Lost Angel". When the river is high there is a wood bridge you can cross at the downriver end of the Lost Angel crag. Alternatively if the river is low you can rock hop across the river. Semi-hidden from Lost Angel this little crag is only a 5 minute downriver hike once you cross the wood bridge. Morning_early afternoon sun.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Universal Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 6 ● X Marks The Start Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 8 ● Equator Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 6 ● Fighting Irish Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a 7 ● Palm Pilot Sport