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The Wall of Voodoo Rock Climbing
Routes in The Wall of Voodoo
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Social Justice Warrior (new name) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sufferin' Succotash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Voodoo Child S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 6,929 ft | 2,112 m |
| GPS: |
40.00161, -105.38752 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 7,170 total · 26/month | |
| Shared By: | Willie Mein on Jun 14, 2002 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This small, but steep, granite crag currently has three quality sport routes.
Although some of the rock tends to be crumbly, the routes are generally high quality climbing on good granite. The routes are well equipped with bomber bolts and excellent anchors. A single rope and 10-11 draws will get you back to the ground.
The climbing on this crag is both steep and funky, with the two right most routes having remarkably different climbing from one another despite being 20 feet apart.
With after noon shade, this Southeast-facing cliff is worth visiting on a hot day. Together with its immediate neighbor Bitty Buttress, there are many high quality routes of all grades in this area.
L->R:
A. Voodoo Child, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Social Justice Warrior (new name), 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Sufferin' Succotash, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
Although some of the rock tends to be crumbly, the routes are generally high quality climbing on good granite. The routes are well equipped with bomber bolts and excellent anchors. A single rope and 10-11 draws will get you back to the ground.
The climbing on this crag is both steep and funky, with the two right most routes having remarkably different climbing from one another despite being 20 feet apart.
With after noon shade, this Southeast-facing cliff is worth visiting on a hot day. Together with its immediate neighbor Bitty Buttress, there are many high quality routes of all grades in this area.
L->R:
A. Voodoo Child, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Social Justice Warrior (new name), 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Sufferin' Succotash, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
Getting There
To get to The Wall of Voodoo, one can approach via the directions described for Bitty Buttress or via the route described below.
The Wall of Voodoo is a small crag located beneath the Bitty Buttress, one of the Eastern-most formations of the greater Blob Rock Massif. Start hiking the climber's trail that begins at a pullout on the North side of the canyon, about 25m west of the pullout to Cob Rock. This is the preferred parking and approach trail to Blob Rock.
After about 50 yards, where the trail gains a small bench and then heads uphill again, go straight East instead. Contour your way down canyon for about 50 yards, till you find the well beaten climber's trail that parallels the Canyon Road along the top edge of the road cut. Follow this trail to the Base of Bitty Buttress. From the Base of Bitty Buttress, descend the Gully to the East of The Wall of Voodoo cliff below, until the bolted routes come into view. Descend all routes from fixed anchors.
The Wall of Voodoo is a small crag located beneath the Bitty Buttress, one of the Eastern-most formations of the greater Blob Rock Massif. Start hiking the climber's trail that begins at a pullout on the North side of the canyon, about 25m west of the pullout to Cob Rock. This is the preferred parking and approach trail to Blob Rock.
After about 50 yards, where the trail gains a small bench and then heads uphill again, go straight East instead. Contour your way down canyon for about 50 yards, till you find the well beaten climber's trail that parallels the Canyon Road along the top edge of the road cut. Follow this trail to the Base of Bitty Buttress. From the Base of Bitty Buttress, descend the Gully to the East of The Wall of Voodoo cliff below, until the bolted routes come into view. Descend all routes from fixed anchors.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Wall of Voodoo
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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All Photos Within The Wall of Voodoo
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