Easter Rock Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,600 ft | 2,316 m |
GPS: |
39.9937, -105.41847 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 117,702 total · 397/month | |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is a crag with a bunch of advanced sport climbs that winds up staying fairly shady for much of the day. It has vertical to slightly-overhanging terrain that generally emphasizes power over technique. There are about 28 climbs here on its east & north faces. The aesthetic Empire of the Fenceless certainly draws the eye. Some routes require gear. Apparently, the word is that this crag can stay dry in some rain. This is confirmed with the exception of the leftmost routes and the upper pitches of the rightmost routes.
Beware of the loose rock if you venture onto the daring East Face route. You may rain down boulders on the approach trail!
FWIW, dogs have been known to make it up the trail to the rock.
There is other rock in the area just downhill, but it is less intriguing.
L->R:
A. East Face?, 9, 2p, bolts & gear.
B. Chickenshift Armchair Environmentalists, 12+, 1p, 110', bolts.
C. Trustafarian Panhandler, 12 or 12+, 1-2p, 100', bolts.
D. Surrounded by Reality, 12, 1p, 100', bolts.
E. Knapweed Herbicide aka Warm Up, 10+, 1p, bolts.
above E. Knappweed Herbicide (Part II), 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
EF. Barbarian Herbicide, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
F. Barbarians, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Empire of the Fenceless, 12-, 1p, bolts.
H1. Tell-Tale Heart, 12, 1p, bolts.
H2. Nevermore, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
I1. Evermore, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
I2. Elanor, 11+, 1p, bolts.
J1I1/H2. Furthermore, 12+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
J1I2. Sad Batman, 12-, 1p, 65', gear & bolts.
J2. Thunderdome, 12-, 1p, gear.
KI1. Dark Knight, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. The Riddler, 11, 1p, bolts.
L. The Joker, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
LK. Mr. Two-Face, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
M. Catwoman, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. Penguin, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Willard, 11, 1p, bolts.
P. White Men Can't Jump, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Q. Dynamic Duel, 13, 1p, bolts.
R. Unknown, ?
S. Pterodactyl Traverse, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
T. The Flying Beast, 12+, 1p, bolts.
U. Rain Shadow, 12, 1p, 45', gear.
V1. Wagging the Nub?, 11+ - 2 pitches, 1p, bolts & gear.
V2. Egg, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
W. New Test of Men, 11+, 2p, 100+', bolts.
X. Road to Emmaus, 11-, 2p, 100', bolts.
Y. ?, ?.
Getting There
Classic Climbing Routes at Easter Rock
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