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Ypsilon Mountain Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Ypsilon Mountain

	Blitzen Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Blitzen Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Prancer Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Y Couloir (Left Branch) 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c X
	Y Couloir (Right Branch) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Elevation:	13,514 ft	4,119 m
GPS:	40.4569, -105.681 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	61,298 total · 220/month
Shared By:	paco on Jan 28, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

One of the most beautiful mountains in the park. the SE face of Ypsilon Mountain is one of the only steep faces in the Mummy Range and is guaranteed to be an escape from the crowds. This 2000 ft face is bordered by ridges on either side forming its own awesome cirque. The left side of the cirque is Donner Ridge, a nice 4th-class hike. The right side is the classic Blitzen Ridge. 5.4 to 5.7? The center of the cirque, the Y Couloirs are reserved for the alpinists. These couloirs hold the remote RMNP alpine experience.

Descent for all Ypsilon routes- either run down the backside to the trail head on Fall River Road (provided it's open). 2nd choice, descend Donner Ridge, or into the cirque between Ypsilon and Chiquita and back to Ypsilon Lake.

Getting There

Approach- find the Lawn Lake trail head and trudge on up to Ypsilon Lake. From there take a less obvious trail NW and try to find Spectacle Lakes (a great place to be!). From here the Y Couloirs are straight ahead in the middle of the face. Donner is to the left and Blitzen is to the right.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ypsilon Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c X 7 ● Y Couloir (Left Branch) Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 7 ● Y Couloir (Right Branch) Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 173 ● Blitzen Ridge Trad, Alpine