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Penitente - Inner Canyon

Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon

Description

As my (arbitrary) name suggests, the inner portion of Penitente proper - anything after the side canyon. You know you're there when you see the Virgin Mary on the wall. Just to the right of the virgin are a couple classics - Tanks for the Hueco (a great climb for mere mortals) and Bullet the Blue Sky (great for mortals to look at).

Getting There

...follow the main trail...

Routes from Left to Right

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 69
● Dazed and Confuzed
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
● Tweaker's Dream
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
● Josie's
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 117
● Shear Strength
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 8
● Sheer Lunacy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
● Schizoid Way
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 64
● Sister of Mercy
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
● Black Jesus
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 84
● Apes in Estrus
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 92
● Ms. Cool
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
● Shady Lady
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
● Anatomy 101
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
● Dan’s Hideaway
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
● Cara de Hueco
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
● A Horse Named Man
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● A Horse With No Name
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 2
● Ball Bearings
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
● Thumb Slab
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
● The Thumb
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
● El Dedo Es la Llave
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 58
● Ranck E
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 65
● Nueve a Seis
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 92
● Hueco Mania (submitted as Huecos…
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 67
● Pumping Huecos
Sport
V2 5+
 1
● Unknown Micah Memorial Boulder Left
Boulder
V5 6C
 1
● Unknown Micah Memorial Boulder R…
Boulder
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 1
● The Unicorn
Sport
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 2
● Unnamed 5.3
Sport
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 2
● Unnamed 5.4
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
● Animosity
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
● Bad Rap
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
● My Body is a Cage
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
● Creature Fear
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● Dog's Delight
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
● Banana Slugs in Heat
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
● Hip Hop
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
● Colville Express
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
● 1 Percent
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
● 2 Percent
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
● Pink Moon
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 2
● Soul Boy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
● Forever Young
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 32
● Candy Apple Grey
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 79
● Brown Sugar
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 28
● 10,000 Maniacs
Sport
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 1
● Black Sheets of Rain
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
● Pinch a Nip
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
● Slabbo Arete (submitted as Unkno…
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 37
● Slabbo Crossing (submitted as Un…
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
● Slabbo
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 75
● Thelma and Louise
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 78
● Jack and Diane
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 20
● Unbound
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 149
● BVB American Hero (submitted as…
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 171
● Jewel of the Mild
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
● Heaven Can Wait
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 94
● Children Of A Lesser Grade
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 114
● Ordinary People
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
● Vapor Trails
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
● Golden Years
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
● No Sweat, No Vapor
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
● Unrepenitente
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● Bob's World
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
● B1 or V5
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
● Reptiles Lust and Dogs
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 33
● Santa Cruz
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 4
● Omnipenitent
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 46
● Jabba the Hutt
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 15
● I'd Rather Leia than Jabba
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
● True Penitence
Trad
V5 6C
 1
● Innocent Mission
Sport, Boulder
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
● Intimidator
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
● Freddy's Nightmare
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
● Friday the 13th
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 3
● Morada
Sport
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
 1
● Power Play
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
● Los Hermanos de la Penitente
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 197
● Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 29
● The Virgin
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 401
● Not My Cross To Bear
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 108
● Bullet the Blue Sky
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 328
● Tanks for the Hueco
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 124
● Breakdown Dead Ahead
Sport
5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
 1
● Rubber Bullet (open project?)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
● We Found This Spoon
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
● Passion Play
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Harvey's Wallbanger
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
● Handle with Care
Trad, Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
● Crucifixion Party
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
● Breaking Bob
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
● Mourning in the Creak
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
● No Intent
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
● Air Jordan
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 75
● 7/11
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
● Tao of Gymnastic
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
● Head Over Heals
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 289
● How The West Was Won
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 122
● Concupiscent Curds
Sport
V2 5+
 1
● Warlock
Boulder
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
● Jesus Wouldn't Climb It
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Dazed and Confuzed
 69
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Tweaker's Dream
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Josie's
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Shear Strength
 117
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Sheer Lunacy
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Sport
● Schizoid Way
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Sister of Mercy
 64
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Black Jesus
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Apes in Estrus
 84
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
● Ms. Cool
 92
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Shady Lady
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Anatomy 101
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Dan’s Hideaway
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Cara de Hueco
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● A Horse Named Man
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● A Horse With No Name
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Ball Bearings
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport, TR
● Thumb Slab
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● The Thumb
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● El Dedo Es la Llave
 42
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Ranck E
 58
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Nueve a Seis
 65
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Hueco Mania (submitted as H…
 92
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Pumping Huecos
 67
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Unknown Micah Memorial Boul…
 1
V2 5+ Boulder
● Unknown Micah Memorial Boul…
 1
V5 6C Boulder
● The Unicorn
 1
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
● Unnamed 5.3
 2
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport
● Unnamed 5.4
 2
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport
● Animosity
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Bad Rap
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● My Body is a Cage
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Creature Fear
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Dog's Delight
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Banana Slugs in Heat
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Hip Hop
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Colville Express
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● 1 Percent
 2
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● 2 Percent
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Pink Moon
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Soul Boy
 2
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
● Forever Young
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Candy Apple Grey
 32
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Brown Sugar
 79
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● 10,000 Maniacs
 28
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
● Black Sheets of Rain
 1
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
● Pinch a Nip
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Slabbo Arete (submitted as…
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Slabbo Crossing (submitted…
 37
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Slabbo
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Thelma and Louise
 75
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
● Jack and Diane
 78
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Unbound
 20
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
● BVB American Hero (submitte…
 149
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Jewel of the Mild
 171
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Heaven Can Wait
 26
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Children Of A Lesser Grade
 94
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Ordinary People
 114
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Sport
● Vapor Trails
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Golden Years
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● No Sweat, No Vapor
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Unrepenitente
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Bob's World
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● B1 or V5
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Reptiles Lust and Dogs
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Santa Cruz
 33
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Omnipenitent
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
● Jabba the Hutt
 46
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● I'd Rather Leia than Jabba
 15
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● True Penitence
 37
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Innocent Mission
 1
V5 6C Sport, Boulder
● Intimidator
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Freddy's Nightmare
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Friday the 13th
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Morada
 3
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
● Power Play
 1
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b Sport
● Los Hermanos de la Penitente
 21
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way
 197
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● The Virgin
 29
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Not My Cross To Bear
 401
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Bullet the Blue Sky
 108
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Tanks for the Hueco
 328
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Breakdown Dead Ahead
 124
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Rubber Bullet (open project?)
 1
5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b Sport
● We Found This Spoon
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Passion Play
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Harvey's Wallbanger
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Handle with Care
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
● Crucifixion Party
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Breaking Bob
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Mourning in the Creak
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● No Intent
 31
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Air Jordan
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● 7/11
 75
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
● Tao of Gymnastic
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Head Over Heals
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● How The West Was Won
 289
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Concupiscent Curds
 122
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Warlock
 1
V2 5+ Boulder
● Jesus Wouldn't Climb It
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The show case of the Inner Canyon, as viewed through a hole at the top of the canyon.
[Hide Photo] The show case of the Inner Canyon, as viewed through a hole at the top of the canyon.
Bouldering in the Inner Canyon, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
[Hide Photo] Bouldering in the Inner Canyon, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Further up the canyon, past Huecos Rancheros, there's a fun little 3 bolt line on the right (5.6/5.7ish) and a short roof-to-slab on the left. I do not know what they are.
[Hide Photo] Further up the canyon, past Huecos Rancheros, there's a fun little 3 bolt line on the right (5.6/5.7ish) and a short roof-to-slab on the left. I do not know what they are.
Right of Jack and Diane.
[Hide Photo] Right of Jack and Diane.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] Speaking of the Virgin.....does anyone know who chipped (drilled)the holds on that (unlisted) route of the same name ??? Oct 11, 2002
TresSki Roach
Santa Fe, NM
[Hide Comment] There are chipped/drilled holes all over the canyon, especially in the area of the Virgin. As my boyfriend was climbing Bullet, I noticed that someone went back in and filled in some holes with epoxy. Chipping is for WUSSIES!!!! Sep 2, 2003
Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] Chipping is lame. Are some of those holes around the painting of the Virgin bullet holes that have been repaired? Thad Sep 2, 2003
Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] The route Virgin No More was chipped or drilled by D'Antonio I heard. Sep 3, 2003
Stewart M. Green
[Hide Comment] Bob D'Antonio didn't chip the Virgin or any other route in the canyon so that's a pretty harsh accusation to hurl at a guy who really developed and opened up Penitente Canyon. I know who chipped the Virgin as well as did some enhancing on Bullet. He knows who he is. I hope he knows it was lame. Chipping lowers the route to your own meek self. Better to elevate your skill to the rock or not climb it... Oct 8, 2003