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The Dark Side

Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd

Description

The name says it all. Dark rock, in the shade, and a good choice for pulling limestone pockets on a hot day. This excellent crag offers a somewhat unique experience from other crags in the main Shelf area. This is one of the "old school" crags at Shelf, with bolting & grading more in line with the original lines at The Bank, Sand Gulch & The Gallery. If you're used to Cactus Cliff style bolting, be prepared for spaced-out bolts, and be prepared to supplement some routes with gear.

As for the climbing, many of the walls are relatively slabby, with fluted black rock that can be uncommonly sharp in places. There are numerous longer lines, but generally the routes here are shorter than those at Cactus or The Gym. Overall the route quality is excellent, despite the mysterious sparsity of stars in the latest guidebook from Sharp End.

Finally, despite the name, in the height of summer, when shade is at a premium, this crag bakes in the sun 'till mid-day. Thankfully the crags sickle-shape provides shade for the East end of the crag a bit earlier (~10am). There are a number of dihedrals that provide earlier shade for routes such as Punjabi, and the routes around Suspender Man.

Getting There

There are two ways to approach the Dark Side, depending on the routes you're headed for. Park at the newly expanded parking lot just past The Bank campground for both approaches.

For routes on the West end of the cliff, hike down from the parking area toward the Bank. Shortly after the road drops down a bit you can pick up a trail to the right. This trail will take you to the 2150 Wall, Cactus, etc, or to The Dark Side by staying hard right ~15 feet after leaving the road. Head East just below the cliff band, where you will encounter various scrambling sections not suitable for young kids.

For routes on the East end of the cliff, hike ~100 yds back down the road, towards Canon City, to a turnoff on the left (N) side of the road that leads to the Group Camp site. Walk towards the Group site, which is surrounded by a ridiculous fence. Once you reach the fence pick up a faint trail that heads East along the fence line. Follow this for ~30 yds to the cliff band atop the bank. Locate a fixed rope or two, and down climb the 3rd class chimney to the base of the cliff. There are ~5 routes located East of this downclimb, but the rest of the routes are to the West. The first route encountered to the West of the downclimb is "Slap Me".

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Stuck in the Middle With You
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Papillion
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 52
Beginner's Outing
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 4
Slap Me
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Levels of the Game
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 19
Face The Music
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Whisper To A Scream
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 72
Black 'N Dicey
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 114
27 Tons
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
El Guapo
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 8
Asym
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Redlined
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 54
Shelf Road Virgin
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 45
Puddle Of Holes
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 2
U Pump It
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 47
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch a…
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 24
The Plum
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 7
Kashmere
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 39
Route Fluffer
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 172
Teenage Wristband
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 11
I Scare Myself
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Kinesthesia
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Stink Finger
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Punjabi
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Warm Busch Beer
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 164
Porkus Procurement
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 330
Enchanted Porkfist
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 300
Lumina
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 78
Acetylcholine
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 62
Fragile
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 28
Counter Balance
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 37
The Crack's On Top
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 84
Muted by Reality
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 0
Gully Boys
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 99
Suspender Man
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 93
Missing Hangers aka Hangers Rega…
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 41
Thank Heaven for Little Girls
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Black Dihedral
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 105
Corner Pockets
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Captain Caveman
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 0
In the Realm of Hungry Ghosts
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 38
Blank Frank
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 9
Void Lloyd
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Go East, Old Man
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 23
The Welcoming
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 40
Trolling For Holds
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
Unknown
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Call From Overseas
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Rip It
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Black Awareness
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Crack Happens
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
The Audition
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Mannequin
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 20
Animatronic
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Viaggro
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
 6
Line of Strength
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 37
Two Hearts
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 13
The Eagle Has Landed
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Fat Like Butta
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Red Devil
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 53
Edge Of Fright
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Everybody Was Here
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Show Me Your Bolts
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Karen
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 167
Fight or Flight
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 96
Unknown But Worth Doing
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 10
Swinging Richards
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 18
Man in Black
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 52
Bonnie
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 46
Clyde
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 3
The Way We Were
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 57
Dark Side Roofs
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stuck in the Middle With You
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Papillion
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Beginner's Outing
 52
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Slap Me
 4
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Levels of the Game
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Face The Music
 19
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Whisper To A Scream
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Black 'N Dicey
 72
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
27 Tons
 114
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
El Guapo
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Asym
 8
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Redlined
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Shelf Road Virgin
 54
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Puddle Of Holes
 45
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport
U Pump It
 2
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lu…
 47
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Plum
 24
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Kashmere
 7
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Route Fluffer
 39
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Teenage Wristband
 172
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
I Scare Myself
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad, Sport
Kinesthesia
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Stink Finger
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Punjabi
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Warm Busch Beer
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Porkus Procurement
 164
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Enchanted Porkfist
 330
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lumina
 300
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Acetylcholine
 78
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Fragile
 62
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Counter Balance
 28
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Sport
The Crack's On Top
 37
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Muted by Reality
 84
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Gully Boys
 0
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Suspender Man
 99
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Missing Hangers aka Hangers…
 93
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Thank Heaven for Little Girls
 41
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Black Dihedral
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Corner Pockets
 105
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Captain Caveman
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
In the Realm of Hungry Ghosts
 0
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Blank Frank
 38
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Void Lloyd
 9
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Go East, Old Man
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Welcoming
 23
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Trolling For Holds
 40
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Unknown
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Call From Overseas
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rip It
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Black Awareness
 8
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Crack Happens
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Audition
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Mannequin
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Animatronic
 20
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Viaggro
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Line of Strength
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R Sport
Two Hearts
 37
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Eagle Has Landed
 13
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Fat Like Butta
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Red Devil
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Edge Of Fright
 53
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Everybody Was Here
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Show Me Your Bolts
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Karen
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fight or Flight
 167
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Unknown But Worth Doing
 96
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Swinging Richards
 10
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Man in Black
 18
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Bonnie
 52
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Clyde
 46
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Way We Were
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Dark Side Roofs
 57
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview showing Porkus Procurement
[Hide Photo] Overview showing Porkus Procurement
Waiting out the storm at the Dark Side.
[Hide Photo] Waiting out the storm at the Dark Side.
Las montañas de la Sangre de Christo, above the Dark Side.
[Hide Photo] Las montañas de la Sangre de Christo, above the Dark Side.
The Dark Side from Cactus Cliff.
[Hide Photo] The Dark Side from Cactus Cliff.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Interesting route, worth doing. Crux on arete and at chains. Probably 11c or 11b/c. Oct 13, 2005
b hof
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] Directly below site 7 there is a small pinyon with webbing to make a clean rappel to Corner Pockets. Jun 12, 2012
JenH
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] There are 3 bolted routes between Bonnie and Fight or Flight. I'm curious of the grades of the routes. Mar 15, 2015
[Hide Comment] @JenH-
I climbed these newer routes today. IMO, for what it's worth...
L to R
9+ : Fight or Flight.
10c/d : Cheese Cracker Stacker.
11a/b : Not Yo Daddy's Roof Pull (but the roof pull right before the anchors is easily a 12 move).

Disclaimer: I made up the name's of the last two routes myself, since I haven't found ANY documentation on them. Aug 30, 2015