Devil's Thumb Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,807 ft | 2,380 m |
GPS: |
39.95233, -105.29015 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 45,083 total · 67/month | |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Dec 31, 1969 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Devil's Thumb is the prominent spire that can be seen from just about anywhere in Boulder along the skyline of the Flatirons. It is just south of Bear Peak and is distinctly... thumb-shaped. Surely every climber in Boulder has had thoughts of climbing it at one point or another, and apparently earlier in the century, so did non-climbers: a steel ladder was put up at one time to make the summit easily accessible, but has long since been removed. A steel pole on the east side of the summit is all that remains of the ladder, but it serves as an excellent rappel point for those willing to brave a laborious approach to the Thumb. Alternatively, there is a two bolt anchor with chains on top. The western side of Devil's Thumb is an incredible, towering overhang, whereas the eastern side has its own, 20 foot overhang that makes the summit a technical climb no matter how you approach it. As far as routes go, there are two moderate routes up weaknesses on the east face, a 5.10d route up the southwest side, an aid route on the northwest side, and what looks like a very fun line of bolts on the north face.
Getting There
Once you begin to see a massive boulder/talus field on your right, break off at any time from the trail and rock-hop your way towards the spire: your goal is the northwest side of Devil's Thumb (at least for the moderate routes). The hopping gradually turns to steep hiking on loose rock, and the steep hiking on loose rock terminates in a few sections of class 4 scrambling - if you're unaccustomed to this it can be scary, but the sections are brief and you're very close to the base of Devil's Thumb at this point. Once you're there, hike around the northern side, and then up and over a boulder to gain access to the east face.
Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Thumb
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