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Sharkstooth Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sharkstooth

	Cathedral Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	South Prow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Valhalla T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Variable T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Elevation:	12,630 ft	3,850 m
GPS:	40.2808, -105.674 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	137,886 total · 454/month
Shared By:	Steve Merschel on Nov 29, 1999 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

Sharkstooth located in Rocky Mountain National Park Colorado is one of the Cathedral Spires located near it’s famous sisters, the Petit Grepon and the Saber.

On the approach the trail splits at a marker for Andrew’s Glacier at the lowest point near the Loch. Make sure to stay low in the valley following the glacial run off and do not follow the trail inadvertently up towards Andrew’s Glacier, the lower route will avoid the worst of the boulder field on the approach to the Gash.

The descent from the summit is bolted as of 2020 for a 1 70 meter rope. Doubles are not needed to descend. Cairns mark the way from the summit to the rappel. Three rappels get you to the class 3 down climb to the Gash. If your last rap is on pitons and a chalkstone, you missed the last set of bolted anchors, but this rap is also secure as of 8/22/2020.

Great routes and views about on this impressive spire and it’s well worth the famously difficult approach.

Getting There

Start at the Glacier Gorge trail head in RMNP. To get there, enter RMNP from Estes, take your first left and it's about 10-15 minutes from there.

From the trailhead, head towards Loch Vale. You'll go about 2 miles and then split off to the right and up some switchbacks to Loch Vale (0.7 miles). Then about another half a mile past Loch Vale, you see a sign for Andrew's Glacier where you split off right. Some miss this the first time, because the trail split isn't obvious, and it's actually about 10 meters before the sign (right after the creek crossing). Take the Andrew's Glacier trail for about half a mile, at which you will come to sign labeled "Andrew's Campground". The trail to The Gash takes a hard left and goes uphill directly before this sign. The trail is hard to see in the dark. After hiking a bit on this trail, you will see the Sharkstooth on your left. You'll also see The Gash which is a big boulder field that goes up to the base of the Sharkstooth. It's about half a mile to the rock from there. Exit the same way you came.

You can get to the south side of the Sharkstooth by skipping the split onto Andrew's Glacier trail. I'm not sure what routes are over here, but this is also the way to the Petit Grepon.

Descent

Per Gregger Man:

Rap 1: rap from 2 bolts ~35m to grassy ledge. A 60m will get you to an easy short 5.1 downclimb if you wish.

Rap 2: go ~40' below and rappeller's left of landing from rap 1 (3rd Class); and rap from 2 bolts ~35m down gully to another ledge.

Rap 3: rap from 2 bolts 60m to the top of East Col (or 35m to rap station 4).

(optional) Rap 4: rap off a good BD angle, a hammered stopper, a chockstone, and a soft iron ring pin in the right wall of the gully ~25m to top of East Col.

(See the topo.)