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Mt. Meeker

Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock
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Description

Mount Meeker is Longs Peak's neighbor to the SE-the second highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park! Not nearly as well known as Longs, it yet houses a classic alpine rock route, the Flying Buttress, and a classic alpine ice route, the Dream Weaver Couloir. A number of other seldom-traveled routes exist which have an appealing look. The rock varies between granite and schist, excellent in both cases. All of the climbing is on the North Face, which is steep and quite wide. The 3rd-class route to the summit is a peak-bagging classic.

Getting There

The approach is easy: take the trail from the Longs Peak trailhead as for the east face of Longs (i.e. staying left at all the trail junctions). When just below Chasm Lake (east face of Longs visible directly west), near a ranger cabin and open-air privy, turn SE and scramble up talus and possibly snow to the base of the now obvious North Face. The North Face is partially visible for the last 2 miles of the approach.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mt. Meeker-Fall.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Mt. Meeker-Fall. Photo by Blitzo.
Max Manson finishing up the hard climbing on P2.
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Photo courtesy of Alton Richardson.
[Hide Photo] Max Manson finishing up the hard climbing on P2. Photo courtesy of Alton Richardson.
A comparison of Flying Buttress pre- and post- the May 2022 rockfall.
[Hide Photo] A comparison of Flying Buttress pre- and post- the May 2022 rockfall.
The North Face of Mount Meeker, July 1 2015.
[Hide Photo] The North Face of Mount Meeker, July 1 2015.
Descent via The Loft (if you go to the summit of Meeker).
[Hide Photo] Descent via The Loft (if you go to the summit of Meeker).
View of The Loft from the approach to Meeker.  Taken 10/3/04.
[Hide Photo] View of The Loft from the approach to Meeker. Taken 10/3/04.
[Hide Photo] untitled
Mt. Meeker in the clouds, from the Lookout Mountain Trail.
[Hide Photo] Mt. Meeker in the clouds, from the Lookout Mountain Trail.
At the foot of Dream Weaver. January 7th 2021.
[Hide Photo] At the foot of Dream Weaver. January 7th 2021.
Mount Meeker's Noth Face. January 7th 2021.
[Hide Photo] Mount Meeker's Noth Face. January 7th 2021.
Mount Meeker's Noth Face. January 7th 2021.
[Hide Photo] Mount Meeker's Noth Face. January 7th 2021.
I have always wondered how many more good routes would go in the Meeker cirque.  Views to the left of the Flying Buttress inspire the imagination to think that there could be many many more. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.
[Hide Photo] I have always wondered how many more good routes would go in the Meeker cirque. Views to the left of the Flying Buttress inspire the imagination to think that there could be many many more. Photo…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Great Climb! We did the 10c start which was beautiful and tough. Use the excellent friction to your advantage.

The 5.9+ crack through the roof on the 3rd pitch that Charles mentions is great and probably doesn't need the "+". It looks improbable, but the holds through the roof are great and they continue above the lip. It was interesting getting my body horizontal under the roof while wearing a pack. The only point of caution here is that the block you haul on at the lip doesn't have any visible means of support, yet it felt solid. Oct 26, 2001