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Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bob's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Burning Down the House S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Completion Backword Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Eldorado Gold S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	In Plain View S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	King of Pain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mind Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Opus 73 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Peri-less Journey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Powder Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Riding With the King S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Three-Stage Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Top Down Design S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:

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GPS:	39.91021, -105.28468 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Richard M. Wright on Apr 9, 2002 · Updates
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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.

Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.

Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.

Description

About ten routes have been done on Secret Crag, some dating back to the '70s. This seldom visited wall is South-facing, has several quite good routes from 70 to 100 feet in length, and is composed of excellent Eldorado sandstone. Route numbering begins on the left end (West) of the crag with (#1) Mind Control (5.10+) and continues right to Eldorado Gold (#10).

The isolation of Secret Crag makes for a superb adventurous day of climbing. While most of the routes are short of 100 feet in length, some are that long and so a 60m rope is recommended. The difficulty never gets above 5.11+, and a fine bolted 5.8 was put up several years ago.

Getting There

Starting from the trail before tunnel 3 and leading up into the woods toward Ridge 4, instead of crossing the talus field, continue uphill on the right side of the talus field. Hump up to another talus field that seems to be near the top of the hill, but not quite. The idea is to get to the West end of Secret Crag. From the West end, a third class scramble leads to the right and down on to a steep slab at he base of the routes, essentially the lower tier. This gets more exposed the further down the slab you go, so be careful getting to the routes at the far end of the crag. It can be useful to carry some camming gear for the belays, since you would not want to roll off the slab.

L->R:

Lower Tier

A. Tier-A's Crack, 5, 1p, gear.
B. Short Cut, 9, 1p, TR.
C? King of Pain, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts.

Middle Tier

A. Left Headwall, 12, 1p, bolts.
B. Downclimb Gully, 4, 1p, gear.
C. Jack The Gripper, 10, 1p, TR.
D. Mind Control, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.
E. Bob's Arete, 8+, 2p, gear.
F. Peril-less Journey, 8, 2p, bolts & gear.
G. Unknown, 11/12, 1p.
H. Burning Down the House, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
I. Opus 73, 10-, 1p, 85', gear.
JI. Three Stage Traverse, 6, 2p, gear.
K. Secret Agent, 10 R A0, 1-2p, gear.
L. Completion Backword Principle, 11-, 1p, bolts.
M. Project, ?, 1p, TR.
N. Top Down Design, 12-, 1p, bolts.
O. Powder Finger, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
P. Roof, ?, 1p, bolts.
Q. Count Dracula, 10, 2p, gear.
R. Eldorado Gold, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. In Plain View, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts.
T. Deep Water, 8, 1p, gear.
U. Book Of Dreams, 8, 1p, gear.
V. Promontory, 6, 1p, gear.
W. Riding With The King, 9, 2p, 130', bolts.
X. East Face, 11 R, 1p, bolt & gear.

Upper Tier

A. Dancing On The Ceiling, 12, 1p, bolts.
B. Murmur, 11, 1p, bolts.
C. Little Route, 10+, 1p, bolts & gear.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 7 ● Peri-less Journey Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 4 ● Riding With the King Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● Mind Control Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 7 ● Eldorado Gold Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 8 ● Completion Backword Principle Sport