The Bihedral (Upper Tier) Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,020 ft | 2,140 m |
GPS: |
40.0035, -105.3964 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 109,870 total · 378/month | |
Shared By: | Kreighton Bieger on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
The Upper Tier of the Bihedral is typical Boulder Canyon granite climbing. Generally less than vertical on bullet-hard grey granite. Good friction with a high concentration of slopers, both large and small, and positive incut edges. The crag itself is identified by a huge, left-facing dihedral and sits on the north side of the canyon. The dihedral is split by a prow about 1/2 way up, the Bihedral.
There are quite a few good routes here, but the most well known is the 2-pitch Bihedral route, which Rossiter so obtusely refers to as "something of a classic".
This area gets good sun and is sometimes sheltered from the wind, which can make it a great place to climb on windless, warmer, winter days.
With a number of new, moderate, mostly bolted routes, this area is a popular place to bring groups and less-experienced climbers. Beware, there are still plenty of loose rocks above.
L->R:
A. Left-Handed Tool, 8, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
B. Tool King, 8, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
C. A Fly in the Ointment, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
D. Edge of Reality, 12- R, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Case of the Fags, 11+, 1p, 70', gear.
F. Acid Crack, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
G1. It's Time For Change, 8, 1p, 95', bolts & gear.
G2. Night Moves, 7, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
above G2. Daydreaming, 10, 1p, 40', gear.
above G2. Oh Boy, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.
G3. Diamonds and Rust, 8+, 1p, 80', bolts.
H1. Fat Tuesday, 10+, 1p, 90', gear & bolts.
H2. Heterohedral, 9- PG-13, 2p, 240', gear.
H3. Hesitantly Decisive, 9- PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
I. Blood Diamond, 11+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
J. High Hard One, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
K. Backdoor Slider, 9, 1p 90', bolts.
L. Group Therapy, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts.
ML. Dan's Line, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts.
above M. Puff Daddy, 10-, 1p, 65', bolts.
N. Trick or Treat, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
O. Sun Spot, 7, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
P. Hold The Line, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & optional gear.
Q. Rhodian, Naturally, 9- R, 1p, 100', gear.
R. Rhodian Shores, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. Bihedral, 8+, 2p, 240', gear.
above S. Crack Variation, 9 R, 2p, gear.
T. AHR, 11c/d, 1p, 70', bolts.
U. Dihedral Variation, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
V. Bihedral Arete, 10-, 2p, 180', bolts & gear.
W. Where's Ray?, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
X. Flags Of Our Fathers, 10-, 3p, 200', bolts & gear.
above X. Sands of Iwo Jima, 11+, 50', bolts.
above X. Thumb Tack, 11+, a final pitch, 1p, gear.
above X. Pariah, 12, 1p, 80', 8 bolts.
Y. Just Putin Around, 9 PG-13, 4p, gear.
Z. Acid Rock, 6-8+ PG-13, 3p, gear.
To the right:
AA. Flesh Eating Flies, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.
Getting There
Cross the road, walk down a bit and find a path that zig-zags up the hill, generally heading right (east). When the trail nears the rock on the right, spot a big pine tree next to the rock. Walk right behind the tree and go left around a rock rib. Climb up the rock, with one short 3rd-class section, to a nice ledge at the bottom of the big dihedral. See for the easiest approach.
To return, reverse the above approach, or else walk 50' left (west) on a path just below the Bihedral route, to a 2-bolt rappel anchor. Rap 95' down a gully to the top of the approach trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
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