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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Red Slab is a lot bigger than it might appear. Nearly all of the routes are a full 8ee5 ft in length. Something like ten years ago Alan Nelson, working with various partners, put in all the routes. Most of the routes are 5.10 with very spacy bolting. On some of these routes you can expect fewer than six clips in 85 feet of climbing. An excellent 5.12b exists as the wall's only testpiece. Bring lots of mental cool and you can pick off about a dozen fine pitches on great stone. Best in the earlier hours (during warmer months), since it faces East by Southeast.
Also, there are a few traditionally-protected, multi-pitch lines which lie just around the corner to the left.
L->R:
Around the corner to the left:
A. 1976 Crack/chimney, 8, 2p, gear.
B. The Corner, 8+, 4p, 350', gear.
C. Jenga, 6, 1p, 90', bolts.
D.Fun 'n' Games, 9-, 3p, 350', gear & bolt.
E. Rubics, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
Main crag:
F. Slip It In, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
G. 1976 Crack/chimney, 8, 2p, gear.
H. Bumblies for Breakfast, 10- PG-13, 1p, 85', bolts.
I. Vapor Trail, 9 PG-13, 1p, 85', TR or bolts.
J. Trundelero, 10, 1p, bolts.
K. Wicked Game, 10+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
L. Spring Fever, 10+, 1p, bolts.
M. Diamondback, 10, 1p, bolts.
N. Pink Slip, 12, 1p, 80', TR or bolts.
ON. Slip and Slide, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
P. Lounge Lizard, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. MK '74, 9+ R/X, 1p, 80', TR or funky gear & bolts.
R. Snakes for Snacks, 10- PG-13, 1p, bolts.
S. Rattle and Scream, 10- PG-13, 1p, 60', bolts.
T? And Now for Something Completely Different, 9 R, 1p, TR.
U? Back Scratcher, 8 R or 9, 1p, TR or gear.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● The Corner |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches | ||
| ● Jenga |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport | ||
| ● Fun 'n' Games |
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Rubics |
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport | ||
| ● Slip It In |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● 1976 Crack/chimney |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Bumblies For Breakfast |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● Vapor Trail |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | ||
| ● Trundelero |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Wicked Game |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport | ||
| ● Spring Fever |
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport | ||
| ● Diamondback |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Pink Slip |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
| ● Slip and Slide |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Lounge Lizard |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● MK '74 |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X Trad, TR | ||
| ● Snakes For Snacks |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● Rattle and Scream |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● And Now for Something Compl… |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad | ||
| ● Back Scratcher |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad |
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Boulder, CO
Also, in addition to the rattlesnakes, we saw a black widow spider walking on the ground- red hourglass and all - at the base of Trundelero. We moved it far far away from the climbs, but be on the lookout.
I would also advise wearing a helmet while climbing AND belaying. There is still plenty of loose rock and I had to dodge a few today. Also some of the bolts are a tad bit spaced out so if you are climbing near your limit take care. See the comments for Rattle and Scream if you think that wearing a helmet at the base of a "sport" crag isn't cool.
A good crag, especially if you enjoy sidepull, balancy, 5.10+ slab work. Nov 4, 2006
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