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Trojan Bunny Buttress
Colorado
> Lyons
> St Vrain Canyons
> S Fork of St Vrain Ca…
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
The Trojan Bunny Buttress is a large and complex formation on the South side of SSV canyon and across the creek from the parking. Most of the rock faces North, however, routes exist on West, East, and North facing parts. The crag proper can be said to begin at a large blank looking wall that faces due East. It sweeps West all the way to a West facing slab called Leatherface that is really part of the same large formation. The rock is typical SSV canyon granite and is well featured with big roofs, edges, flakes, and cracks. While many single pitch routes exist on TBB, the crag is really two pitches high and a few two pitch routes exist as well. Several older trad routes follow obvious crack systems. Also, the TBB slab in the middle of the formation and the Leatherface slab at the West end both have older sport routes that need a little protection in addition to the bolts. Since early in the year 2000 about 15 new sport lines have gone in. These take some of the obvious features of the crag, pushing through the roof systems, aretes, and the largely untouched middle section. Many of these routes are hard, with nothing easier than 5.11b. Most of the pitches have been Red Pointed as of this writing. However, some terrific projects are still in the works. The upper pitches of the two pitch routes are on some of the finest granite I have climbed in the SSV.
Getting There
The Trojan Bunny Buttresses sits 7.2 miles up the SSV canyon via CO Highway 7. A large and generous parking area is right below, but on the opposite side of the stream and right off the road. Two approaches have been used to access the crag. On the left is an easily negotiated talus field with a cairn trail marked through it. The left approach will deposit you exactly at the East end of the crag. Alternatively, it is possible to head up the gully directly across from the parking. This will jog left to easy terrain half way up the gully. This approach deposits you at the TBB slab itself. Both approaches entail crossing the stream. However, since all five Tyrollean traverses that were installed at the TBB have been chopped, you are pretty much on your own for getting across the stream. I have found that 100 feet downstream from the edge of the parking there is a good section for wading across.
[Hide Comment] Most if not all of the routes on The Bunny were established by Alvino and company. In fact, many routes in the Vrain were established by Alvino and company. Hence 'Pon Scum' (12) or 'Pondimonium', etc.
Sep 28, 2009
[Hide Comment] Has anybody made it up to the TBB this season? We made a feeble attempt a couple weeks ago. Between my wife being gimpy and me being wimpy the creek crossing didn't look too enticing, so we bailed. Curious to see if anybody has found a good way across - it looks like the creek has changed a lot since I was last there a few years ago.
Jul 30, 2014
[Hide Comment] Good question. I was going to try to go to Mechanical Man the other day, and it was a new slick trench. No go until the water falls significantly.
Let's be sure to update each approach as we find them. Desdemona/Area 51 are good to cross - wider than they used to be, but walkable with a stick.
Jul 31, 2014
[Hide Comment] September 20th - the water is low enough to cross either above the crag (a 5-foot jump) or just below it at the talus slope.
Sep 20, 2014
[Hide Comment] The parking lot has been reduced quite a bit but is still there. We ended up parking at the lot for The Monkey Skull, walked upstream roughly 1/4 of a mile, and used a short and sketchy Tyrolean to cross the stream.
May 8, 2023
[Hide Comment] There are parking on both sides of the road with a few spots each, so I would think it could easily accommodate normal traffic. As of May 2023, the Tyrolean has two ropes, with one rope being completely sketchy. The second rope looks okay though, but we didn't inspect carefully. The water is running crazy, so you definitely don't want to fall into it. Botany of Desire side of the crag, at this time of the year, is generally sunny in the morning and goes into shade in the afternoon.
May 29, 2023
[Hide Comment] I went up here today, and the tyrol is out. Looks like the rope snapped (or got cut) from the roadside boulder and is dangling in the water. The anchors look fine. The water is way too gnarly to cross, unless you cross way downstream. Godspeed.
Apr 17, 2024
Around Boulder, CO
Let's be sure to update each approach as we find them.
Desdemona/Area 51 are good to cross - wider than they used to be, but walkable with a stick. Jul 31, 2014
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Longmont, CO
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