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Animal World

Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

The Lower Animal World crag contains a good selection of bolted sport routes, as well as a handful of moderate crack climbs. Middle Animal World has a good mix of difficulties on high-quality routes on a beautiful ledge.  Further to the east, the Upper Animal World cliff contains about 15 superb bolted sport climbs, with most falling in the 5.11-5.12+ range. A few will require either two ropes to get down, or need to be done a couple of pitches (bolted belay stations are provided for these climbs). The rock quality is fantastic, and all of the routes are well bolted and are of the highest quality.

L->R:

Lower Animal World
A. Aardvark, 9-, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
B1. Crack Corner, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
B2 or C. Triple Play, 10a, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
D. Animal Riots Activist, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Piles of Trials, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Automatic Choke, 12. 1p, 50', gear.
G. Cannabis Sportiva, 10, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
H. Old Dihedral, 8, 1p, 45', gear.
I. Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food), 12, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
J. Joint Venture, 11-, 1-2p, 100', bolts.
above I & J. Beast Food Left, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
above I & J.. Beast Food Right, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
K. Gull Whackers, 8, 1p, 95', gear & bolts.
L. Animation, 8, 1p, 100', originally gear, now bolts.
M. Familiar Strangers, 8, 1p, 80', gear.
N. Unfamiliar Stranger, 9, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.

O. Cold Snap, 11-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
P. Free Willie, 11-, 1p, <100', bolts.
Q. Days of Future Passed, 12-, 1p, <100', bolts, fixed pro.
R. Threshold Of A Dream, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
S. Nice To Be Here, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Reversal Roof, 13-, 1p, bolts.
U. Lovely to See You, 12, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
V. Tuesday Afternoon, 11, 1p, 75', bolts.
W. Melancholy Man, 11, 1p, 75', bolts & sling.
X. Is It Ready Yet...Moe, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
Y. We Don't Do Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
Z. Lazy Day, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
AA. Dihedral, 7, 2-3p, gear.
BB. Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
CC. Geritol Generation, 9-, 50', gear.

Middle Animal World:
DD.. Ride My See-saw, 10-, 80', gear & bolts.
EE. Wine & Roses, 10+, 60', gear.
FF. Talking Out Of Turn, 10-, 1-2p, 115', bolts.
GG1. Split Personality, 12, 1p, 95', bolts.
GG2. Isn't Life Strange, 11, 2p, 105', bolts.
HH. POS or P2 of Dihedral, 7, 2p, gear.
II. Crack, 1p, gear.
JJ. Strange Times, 10+, 60', gear & bolts.
KK. The Balance, 11-, 75', gear & bolts.
LL. Hope and Pray, 8, 60', gear & bolts.

Upper Animal World
A. Krakatoa, 10, 2p, gear.
B. The Fifth World, 12, 1p, gear.
BC. The Fifth Destiny, 12+, 1p, bolts +/- gear.
C. Hands of Destiny, 12+, 2p, 60m rope req'd, gear & bolts.
D. Animal Instinct, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Sundog, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Evolution Revolution, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Global Gorilla, 12, 1-3p, 170', bolts.
H. Animal Magnetism, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.
I. Animal Antagonizer, 13+?, 1p, bolts.
J. Cujo Magnetism, 12-, 1p, bolts.
K. Cujo Tranquilizer, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
L. Pit Bull Prowser, 13-, 1-2p, bolts.
M. Wandervogel, 11- R (crosses Cujo Tranquilizer), 2p, gear.
N. New Beginnings, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head, 11+, 3p, 150', bolts & gear.

P.? ??, 11, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.

Getting There

There are two ways to reach the Animal World cliffs. Park in the same pullout as the Boulderado (8.5 miles up the canyon, the parking is on the left just after a long sweeping right turn in the road), and walk up to the base of the Boulderado cliff. From the left (West) side of the Boulderado follow a trail straight up the hill until it branches right. Take this right turn (it should lead you above and behind the Boulderado cliff), until you see the Lower Animal World cliff up on your left.

To reach the Upper Animal World cliff, continue along the base of the Lower cliff (towards the right side of it) until you reach its end. The Upper cliff lies uphill and to the right of the Lower cliff. The upper cliff is almost 200 feet tall, and faces downhill.

A different approach can be made by walking right from the base of the Boulderado for 75 yards before heading straight uphill to the Upper cliff. Be EXTREMELY careful not to knock loose rocks down to the highway below, and while you're at it, try not to let yourself fall down onto the road either.

The parking area is at 39.997266, -105.416547

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper Narrows topo overview.
[Hide Photo] Upper Narrows topo overview.
Bob Horan trad on Hands of Destiny, Animal World.
[Hide Photo] Bob Horan trad on Hands of Destiny, Animal World.
Taken from Sleeping Beauty Slab
[Hide Photo] Taken from Sleeping Beauty Slab
Routes on the east side of Animal World.<br>
<br>
P. The Fifth World 12b, 11 bolts plus gear.<br>
Q. Hands of Destiny 12c/d, bolts.<br>
R. Animal Instinct 12c, 7 bolts.<br>
T. Evolution Revolution 12b/c, 9 bolts.<br>
U. Global Gorilla, bolts. Three pitches. P1: 11b.  P2: 12b/c. P3: 12b.<br>
<br>
Photo by Vaino Kodas; used with permission.
[Hide Photo] Routes on the east side of Animal World. P. The Fifth World 12b, 11 bolts plus gear. Q. Hands of Destiny 12c/d, bolts. R. Animal Instinct 12c, 7 bolts. T. Evolution Revolution 12b/c, 9 bolts.…
Animals!
[Hide Photo] Animals!
Right side.
[Hide Photo] Right side.
Left side.
[Hide Photo] Left side.
The view just before Lower Animal World, where Animation and Cannabis Sportiva are. You can see the parking area.
[Hide Photo] The view just before Lower Animal World, where Animation and Cannabis Sportiva are. You can see the parking area.
The giant dead tree at the base of Animation and Cannabis Sportiva, among others.
[Hide Photo] The giant dead tree at the base of Animation and Cannabis Sportiva, among others.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] When you are walking up to Animal World there is another small crag about 50 feet above the trail when the trail heads right over the top of Boulderado.

The rock has about 5 lines. The two middle ones share an anchor, the left is probably 9+ or 10 - and the right side is probably 12. Off to the right is an easy route, probably 5.6 The routes are maybe 35 - 40 ft high.

Does anyone know if these routes are on this site? They're not stellar, but not too bad. Jun 7, 2005
ac
[Hide Comment] Mine Hole Crag, it is on this site. Jun 8, 2005
Joe Collins
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The harder one was put up by Jim Hone and goes at 11d. He showed this route to me when I first moved to Boulder 4 years ago. I suspect he put up the other routes as well. Jun 8, 2005
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Look for those routes under "Mine Hole Crag". They are all reasonably enjoyable, with the 5.12 beyond my current limits. Make sure you finish off the visit with the 5.8 crack on the right. :)_ Jun 8, 2005
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I guess I made the same mistake as others here and went to Mine Hole Crag while looking for lower Animal World.

Lower Animal World is pretty much directly above and to the right of Boulderado. We initially went too far up and were traversing above Lower Animal World... To get to that crag, take the right just as you get to the top of Boulderado (I thought that right was just for the getting to the anchors of Boulderado and continued on...) Now that I know the way, it is only a 5 minute walk in, but I can see how people can easily go too far up. Jul 3, 2008
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Blockhead is between I. and J. Jul 15, 2009
[Hide Comment] We will be first-time visitors to Boulder Canyon. For whatever reason, this crag has "animal appeal". Does it get shade in the morning or late afternoon this time of the year (summer), and what are the sporto must-dos here, between .9 and .12b?
Many thanks for any and all beta! Aug 25, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
[Hide Comment] ^^^ @ S. Noah.

AW left side (which is the side that contains some moderates), gets a lot of sun pretty much all day because its largely south-facing. IMHO, it's pretty warm this time of year, but that certainly doesn't stop people from climbing there. The far right side (which contains the classic 11-12 range climbs) gets morning sun and afternoon shade because it's east-facing. Pretty much everything on the far right side is awesome and worth getting on. Hope that helps. Aug 28, 2017
[Hide Comment] If you get up early, the left side gets shade for quite a while, up around Animal Riots Activist. Then you can swing all of the way around to the right side for afternoon shade. Aug 28, 2017
[Hide Comment] Thanks to everyone who provided valuable sun/shade information, incl. Leo who PM'ed me. What we ended up doing was spending half of the day at Avalon, with a long lunch, and then climbed at Animation and to the right of it. As mentioned above, lots of great routes in this sector. Very enjoyable way to end our trip to CO, and we will be back :)
We also feel very grateful to those who had kept the hw up-to-date and safe. No nasty 3/8" spinners to be found on anything we came across. Sep 3, 2017
Dylan Houser
Austin, TX > Boulder, CO >…
[Hide Comment] ROCK FALL: minor rock fall at the top quarter of the scramble up to Middle Animal World. There is a microwave-sized block and a few football-sized blocks that are extremely insecure and will come loose with the flick of a finger.

BE EXTREMELY CAUTIOUS hiking up and down! Nov 10, 2017
Andy Renz
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] When the beta says take the right for Lower Animal World, walk maybe 5 minutes after you turn. If you don't walk very far, you may end up at the Mine Hole Crag (which is were you end up if you continue straight). You walk for those 5 minutes and drop down to get to Lower Animal World. Nov 21, 2017
David A
Gardnerville, NV
[Hide Comment] Just a heads up...the sheriff was out in full force today ticketing illegally parked cars along the northside of the highway ($35). The "No Parking signs" are not very noticeable or obvious, so make sure to double check when you park if you don't want to deal with the hassle of a parking ticket. Jun 3, 2018
Taylor Brown
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] If visiting around dawn or dusk, pay attention, and know your mountain lion safety (although, in Colorado, this kind of applies everywhere). There is a cave in the middle of Lower Animal World that you will walk by but not see from the trail that I believe is likely a mountain lion den. Jul 18, 2024