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Overhang Area

Colorado > Golden > N Table Mountain/Gold…
Warning Access Issue: Please Obey Speed Limits & Rim Rock Trail Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

This area is right where the approach trail ends. As a result, it is probably now the most popular section along the cliffs. The name is misleading, because while many routes are slightly overhanging, there are no "radical overhangs" and there are also numerous less-than vertical climbs. A number of good 10s and 11s lie in wait here.

Getting There

Ascend the trail from the parking lots. This is the area basically from near where the trail intersects the cliff band and continues left.

Per Brent Kelly: the GPS coordinates are: 39.768331, -105.216142.

L->R:

A. The Plumber's Crack, 10-, 1p, 60, gear.
B. Intuition, 7 R, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Teeter Totter Pillar aka Toast & Jam?, 7+, 1p, 50', gear (& bolts).
D. The Ground Doesn't Lie, 10+, 1p, bolts.
E. Top Rope Face, 10, 1p, TR.
F. Cracks, ?, 1p, gear.
G. Beer Barrel Buttress, 10+, 1p, 65', bolts.
H. Beer Pong, 9-, 1p, 65', gear.

I1. What Line?, 10-, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
I2. Sidelines, 8 or 10-, 1p, bolts.
J. Beer Drinkers & Hell Raisers, 8+, 1p, 45', gear.
K. In Between The Lines, 9-, 1p, 45', bolts.
L. Corniche, 7 or 8, 1p, 45', gear.
M. Off Line, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. Crack/Bulge, 8+, 1p, 55', gear.
O. Hippy School, 8, 1p, 55', gear or TR.
P. Mr. Squirrel Places A Nut, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q1. Routefinding 101, 9, 1p, gear.
Q2. Tora, Tora, Tora, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
R. Handle This Hard On, 12-, 1p, bolts.
SR. Toura Handle, 9- PG-13, 1p, 70', TR or bolts & gear.
S. Toura Obscura, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
T. Here Today, Gone Tomorrow, 9 or 11+, 1p, bolts.
U. Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain, 9+, 1p, 60', gear.
V1. Mr. Peery Takes A Bow, 11-, 1p, bolts.
V2. Mrs. Hen Places A Peck, 11+, 1p, bolts. Gently overhanging face.
W. Chicken Dance, 12-, 1p, bolts. R of big hole near start.
X. Hell Raiser, 10-, 1p, 60', gear.
Y. Serious Play, 11 R, gear.
Z. 2 Ways 2 Hell, 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
AA. Half and Half 2, 7, 1p, bolts & gear.
BB. Smear Me A Beer, 11, 1p, bolts.
CC. Hellbound II, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
DD. This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
EE. Natural Fact, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
FF. Fabulous Flying Carr's Route, 10- or 11-, 1p, bolts.
GG. Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route aka Sloping Forehead, 7+, 1p, bolts.
HH. Pack O' Bobs aka Ivory Tower, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
II. Crack to Chimney, 7, 1p, 60', bolt & gear.
JJ. Wholly Holey, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
KK. War With A Rack, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
LLKK. Crack To Face, 8, 1p, 60', gear or TR.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
● The Plumber's Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 86
● Intuition
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 52
● Toast & Jam?
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 103
● The Ground Doesn't Lie
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
● Top Rope Face
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 79
● Beer Barrel Buttress
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 18
● Beer Pong
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
● What Line?
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 119
● Sidelines
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 41
● Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 210
● In Between the Lines
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 62
● Corniche
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 239
● Off Line
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
● Crack/Bulge
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
● Hippy School
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 146
● Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
● Routefinding 101
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 57
● Tora, Tora, Tora
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 38
● Handle This Hard On!
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 4
● Toura Handle
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
● Toura Obscura
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
● Here Today Gone Tomorrow
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 59
● Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pin…
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 54
● Mr. Peery Take A Bow
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 119
● Mrs. Hen Places a Peck
Sport, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 46
● Chicken Dance
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
● Hellraiser
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 1
● Serious Play
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 26
● 2 Ways 2 Hell
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
● Half and Half 2
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 84
● Smear Me A Beer
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
● Hellbound II
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 262
● This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
● Natural Fact
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 127
● The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route
Sport, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 114
● Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 239
● Pack 'o Bobs
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
● Crack to Chimney
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 198
● Wholly Holey
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
● War With A Rack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Plumber's Crack
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Intuition
 86
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Toast & Jam?
 52
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● The Ground Doesn't Lie
 103
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Top Rope Face
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
● Beer Barrel Buttress
 79
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Beer Pong
 18
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
● What Line?
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
● Sidelines
 119
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
● Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers
 41
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● In Between the Lines
 210
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport, TR
● Corniche
 62
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Off Line
 239
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
● Crack/Bulge
 23
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Hippy School
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut
 146
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
● Routefinding 101
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Tora, Tora, Tora
 57
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
● Handle This Hard On!
 38
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Toura Handle
 4
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
● Toura Obscura
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Here Today Gone Tomorrow
 41
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Mr. Coors Contributes to th…
 59
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Mr. Peery Take A Bow
 54
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Mrs. Hen Places a Peck
 119
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
● Chicken Dance
 46
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Hellraiser
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Serious Play
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad, TR
● 2 Ways 2 Hell
 26
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Half and Half 2
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Smear Me A Beer
 84
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Hellbound II
 31
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim
 262
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
● Natural Fact
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● The Fabulous Flying Carrs R…
 127
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
● Another Unnamed Billy Bob R…
 114
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Pack 'o Bobs
 239
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Crack to Chimney
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Wholly Holey
 198
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● War With A Rack
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

#1 shows the simple set-up that is bomber and easily replaced without removing the bolt. <br> <br> #2 shows the problem. Sure a single rap hanger is cheaper, but what about the future? Removing bolts weakens them. I've broken several unscrewing them. <br> <br> #3 how anyone can fix a worn rap hanger. The fatter, stronger, quick links in #1 are a tight fit.
[Hide Photo] #1 shows the simple set-up that is bomber and easily replaced without removing the bolt. #2 shows the problem. Sure a single rap hanger is cheaper, but what about the future? Removing bolts…
Ken Trout on one of his own, part 3.
[Hide Photo] Ken Trout on one of his own, part 3.
Winch Hooks from Home Depot installed on Golden Cliffs. See my comment below for details of what to buy if you want to help solve the problem of worn anchors. The quick links and hooks can go on Fixe rings too. Just clip in and lower. Much thicker than "fixed" carabiners and easy to replace.
[Hide Photo] Winch Hooks from Home Depot installed on Golden Cliffs. See my comment below for details of what to buy if you want to help solve the problem of worn anchors. The quick links and hooks can go on…
Signs of spring showing up.
[Hide Photo] Signs of spring showing up.
A lot of new routes have gone in since 1992. Green x means bolts that are new since then, on just the routes shown.
[Hide Photo] A lot of new routes have gone in since 1992. Green x means bolts that are new since then, on just the routes shown.
Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
[Hide Photo] Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Sun setting on the rocks.
[Hide Photo] Sun setting on the rocks.
[Hide Photo] untitled

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Schoep
[Hide Comment] Hey All, I've been trying to figure out the name and rating of a route up here. It is towards the left hand side of the Overhang Area. The first three bolts follow an open book with a finger crack in the back of it. The left face is quite smooth, but the right face has some small edges. It leads to an overhang with a handjam after which it heads to the left to one more bolt and some coldshuts. If anyone knows what this is, I would love the info. Thanks. Apr 18, 2005
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Brian, the route you are describing I believe is an un-named 5.8. Apr 19, 2005
Buff Johnson
[Hide Comment] There's a natural line just climber's right of #46 (as noted in the beta pic -- #46=Offline). It takes good gear, I think 4-5 cams & a bolt to finish. A couple of balancy stem moves using some crack for good hands & fingers taking the overhangs more directly. Not too bad at all. The crux (I thought) is pulling the overhang to the right of the 2nd bolt located on Offline. Aug 14, 2006
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] We've put winch hook anchors on over thirty routes up at the Golden Cliffs Preserve. Mostly on routes I'd bolted originally. Just clip the rope in and lower off. No need to risk rappel cleaning. When these hooks get worn, they are easy and safe to replace.

Here is what we used from Home Depot in Golden:

1/2" Quick Link, rated to 1498kg, used to attach hook to bolt hanger or existing rings, $4.17. The links don't get worn and won't need much future replacement.

3/4" X 4-1/4" Winch Hook, rated to 1,134kg, can easily be replaced in the future, $4.77. Dec 10, 2007
Mike Howard

[Hide Comment] Ken,

I want to be the first to thank you for your effort and expense. Might just save a life and that deserves kudos. I have been looking for mussy hooks and the only site I found them on was Fish. Did you say you got them at Home Depot as well or just the quick links? Do you oppose the hook gates? A photo would be great of the set-up.

Thanks again,

Mike

Edit 1/18/08: Thanks for the HD info and the photo and the effort. Cheers Mike Dec 10, 2007
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Route R is Toura Obscura. It felt like a solid 5.9 relative to other GC routes. Not a bad route, but lots of bird crap didn't help. Aug 19, 2010