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Little Eiger Rock Climbing
Routes in Little Eiger
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"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Decider, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free Up The Weed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Too! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Elevation: | 6,200 ft | 1,890 m |
| GPS: |
39.7432, -105.2991 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 205,414 total · 706/month | |
| Shared By: | Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
This rock does look surprisingly like its European big brother although far more modest in size. Most of the routes on this rock are 1-pitch sport climbs, but the rock also boasts one of the longer sport routes in the canyon, Too (5.12a), at 4 pitches. There are some traditionally-protected climbs here with potential for plenty of traditional, exploring-type climbing above the sport routes...beware of rockfall. The sport climbs on this rock are well-protected and fun. During the summer months, it's a nice but popular place to climb as it keeps the shade longer than many rocks in the area and the approach is minimal. Some of the routes on the right side of the cliff have tags on the 1st bolt with names and ratings.
L->R:
A. Black Hole, 11, 1p, 30', gear.
B. Black Haul, 10, 1p, 25', gear. Alcove.
C. Delusions of Grandeur, 12, 1p, 25', bolts.
arete
D1. The DeCappitator, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.
D2. Bonehead, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Conehead, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Unknown, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
G1. Headline, 10a, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Crack.
G2. Trouthead, 10 or 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Eiger Sanction, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Eiffel Tower, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
J. Herbal Essence, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts.
K. First Impressions, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
L. Unknown, 9, 1p, 80', TR.
M. Footloose, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts.
N. Unknown, 10, 1p, 80', TR.
P. Eiger Direct, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11, 1p, 65', bolts.
Some of the following routes are best done with 2 ropes or a 70m rope:
R. Too!, 12-, 4p, 135m, bolts & gear.
S. The Nordwand, 11, 2p, 80', bolts.
T. Natural Selection, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
U. Tierra del Fuego, 11 or 12-, 1p, 100', bolts. Above Tierra Del Fuego (extension), 12-, 105', bolts.
V. Bush Administration, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.
Top of approach trail.
W. Busch Gardens, 10, 1p, 120', bolts..
X. The Naked Hedge, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
Y. The Green Zone, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
Z1. Persistent Vegetative State, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.
Z2. Free Up the Weed, 10 or 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
AA. The Decider, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
BB. Misunderestimate, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.
CC. Tsunami of Charisma, 11-, 1p, 115', bolts.
DD. "Is Our Children Learning?", 10-, 1p, 115', bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Little Eiger
Sun & Shade
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
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Photos
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