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Elevation: 6,200 ft 1,890 m
GPS: 39.7432, -105.2991
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Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This rock does look surprisingly like its European big brother although far more modest in size. Most of the routes on this rock are 1-pitch sport climbs, but the rock also boasts one of the longer sport routes in the canyon, Too (5.12a), at 4 pitches. There are some traditionally-protected climbs here with potential for plenty of traditional, exploring-type climbing above the sport routes...beware of rockfall. The sport climbs on this rock are well-protected and fun. During the summer months, it's a nice but popular place to climb as it keeps the shade longer than many rocks in the area and the approach is minimal. Some of the routes on the right side of the cliff have tags on the 1st bolt with names and ratings.

L->R:

A. Black Hole, 11, 1p, 30', gear.

B. Black Haul, 10, 1p, 25', gear. Alcove.

C. Delusions of Grandeur, 12, 1p, 25', bolts.

arete

D1. The DeCappitator, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.

D2. Bonehead, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.

E. Conehead, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.

F. Unknown, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.

G1. Headline, 10a, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Crack.

G2. Trouthead, 10 or 11, 1p, 60', bolts.

H. Eiger Sanction, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.

I. Eiffel Tower, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.

J. Herbal Essence, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts.

K. First Impressions, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.

L. Unknown, 9, 1p, 80', TR.

M. Footloose, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts.

N. Unknown, 10, 1p, 80', TR.

P. Eiger Direct, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.

Q. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11, 1p, 65', bolts.

Some of the following routes are best done with 2 ropes or a 70m rope:

R. Too!, 12-, 4p, 135m, bolts & gear.

S. The Nordwand, 11, 2p, 80', bolts.

T. Natural Selection, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.

U. Tierra del Fuego, 11 or 12-, 1p, 100', bolts. Above Tierra Del Fuego (extension), 12-, 105', bolts.

V. Bush Administration, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.

Top of approach trail.

W. Busch Gardens, 10, 1p, 120', bolts..

X. The Naked Hedge, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.

Y. The Green Zone, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.

Z1. Persistent Vegetative State, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.

Z2. Free Up the Weed, 10 or 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.

AA. The Decider, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.

BB. Misunderestimate, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.

CC. Tsunami of Charisma, 11-, 1p, 115', bolts.

DD. "Is Our Children Learning?", 10-, 1p, 115', bolts.

Getting There Suggest change

This is 3.3 miles past the west side of tunnel one (which is ~4.5 miles from CO 93 & US 6). You pass over a bridge, and it's directly on your south/left side. Park on a small pullout on the north/right side, or use a larger dirt pullout downstream/before the bridge.

31 Total Climbs

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Location: Little Eiger Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Eiger

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 594
Herbal Essence
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 803
First Impressions
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 428
Footloose
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 429
Headline
Trad, Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 603
Persistent Vegetative State
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 471
Busch Gardens
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 358
The Naked Hedge
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 571
Bush Administration
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 249
The Green Zone
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 201
The Nordwand
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 306
Conehead
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 192
Tierra Del Fuego
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 171
Tsunami Of Charisma
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 182
Radometer in the Red Zone
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 280
Eiger Direct
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Herbal Essence
 594
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
First Impressions
 803
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Footloose
 428
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Headline
 429
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Persistent Vegetative State
 603
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Busch Gardens
 471
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Naked Hedge
 358
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bush Administration
 571
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Green Zone
 249
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Nordwand
 201
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Conehead
 306
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tierra Del Fuego
 192
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tsunami Of Charisma
 171
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Radometer in the Red Zone
 182
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Eiger Direct
 280
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Little Eiger »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: North
Sunny Roughly 6am to 10am during high season
6am
8pm

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