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Upper Security Risk

Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Security Risk Massif
Warning Access Issue: Security Risk closure 2/1/24 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting DetailsDrop down

Description

Mainly sport climbing, but there are some trad lines also. I haven't climbed much here, but there are some high quality sport climbs especially in the more difficult grades. Most of the routes are long, so bring up to 14 QDs. Bring tape for the crack climbs.

There have been eagle nesting closures which have limited access to this crag in the Feb. 1 - July 31 timeframe.

L->R:

A. S Buttress Full Left, 9- PG-13, 1p, 85', gear.

B. S Buttress Indirect, 9 PG-13, 1p, 80', gear.

C. S Buttress, 9+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts from D.

D. Pup, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.

E. Crash Test Blondes, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.

FC. S Buttress Direct, 10, 1p, 90', gear.

G. Led Astray, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.

H. Crossfire, 9, 1p, gear.

I. Friendly Fire, 10 R, 1p, 100', gear.

J. Cracking The Code, 11, 2-3p, bolts.

K. Just a Little Insecure, 12-, 1p, bolts.

L. Serp-du-oh-hai!, 13-, 1p, 32', bolts.

M. Get Smart, 10+ R, 1p, 100', gear.

N. Plan B, 12, 1p, 95', bolts.

O. The Juice, 12+, 1p, bolts.

PO. The Juiced Flyer, 12-, 1p, bolts.

Q. Hot Flyer, 11+, 1p, gear or bolts.

R. Hot Wire, 12+, 1p, 100', bolts.

S. Cappuchino, 10+ R/X, 1p, gear.

T. Espresso, 10+, R, 1p, gear.

Getting There

Hike as you would to Happy Hour Crag, but instead of veering left, keep heading straight up the hill.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 1
S Buttress Full Left
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 1
S Buttress Indirect
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
The "S" Buttress
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 107
Pup
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 110
Crash Test Blondes
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
S Buttress Direct
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 33
Led Astray
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 1
Friendly Fire
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 40
Cracking the Code
Sport 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 49
Just A Little Insecure
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Serp-du-oh-hai!
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 53
Get Smart
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 157
Plan B
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 21
The Juice
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 102
Hot Flyer
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 27
Hot Wire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
S Buttress Full Left
 1
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
S Buttress Indirect
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
The "S" Buttress
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pup
 107
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Crash Test Blondes
 110
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
S Buttress Direct
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Led Astray
 33
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Friendly Fire
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Cracking the Code
 40
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Just A Little Insecure
 49
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Serp-du-oh-hai!
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Get Smart
 53
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Plan B
 157
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Juice
 21
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Hot Flyer
 102
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hot Wire
 27
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

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Upper Security Risk, Boulder Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Upper Security Risk, Boulder Canyon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Had a close encounter with a huge Golden Eagle on the Solar Dome about a month ago. Partner was near the top of Altoids when this thing just stalled right above her for a moment--seemed like within 10'. It'd be great if there were more of these incredible creatures flying around--please respect these closures; they'll benefit us all in the long run. Mar 21, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/
Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) – The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreatio…. Apr 8, 2010