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Upper Dream Canyon Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Upper Dream Canyon

Bat Cove 3

Candle Stick Crag 2

Chamber, The 1

Classic Cliff 4

Dream Dome 29

Greenhouse, The 2

Icon, The 4

Jessica's Block 3

Lost Angel 59

Midnight Rock 29

Oceanic Wall 25

Spider's Den, The 1

Steeple, The 1

Terrace, The 3

Thunder Point 5

Touch of Grey Slabs 1

Turtle Dome 2

Universal Crag 10

Vanishing Point 11

Water Slabs 8

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Elevation:	7,500 ft	2,286 m
GPS:	40.0102, -105.4066 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	463,927 total · 1,564/month
Shared By:	Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Upper Dream Canyon is one of the more secluded yet nearby climbing areas around. Climbing in Upper Dream Canyon is as much about the routes themselves as it is the gentle canyon that surrounds you. The area has a reputation for being a homosexual and nudist hotspot; however, this is exaggerated. Nevertheless, find another climbing area if this offends you. Upper Dream Canyon offers a nice variety of traditional and sport climbs, often enabling a climbing party to climb out of the canyon--a must during a late summer sunset. Because this area is pristine, be sure to pick up your trash, stay on trails, and respect the residents that live above the canyon.

This area include ~13 crags, although Lost Angel & Dream Dome have the bulk of the climbs here. Much of the climbing here is bolt protected; however, there are some gear routes here.

Getting There

Although Upper Dream Canyon can be reached by hiking up from the base of Boulder Falls, most opt for turning right off Boulder Canyon at ~4 miles on Sugarloaf Road. After 3 miles, take a left on Lost Angel Road, continue straight at 1 mile, head left shortly after (at the sign posted on a tree stump that says North Gulch), and you will reach a dirt parking lot within another half mile. Several trails lead to the base of Upper Dream Canyon. To reach the Oceanic Wall and Dream Dome, walk down the road a short way past the parking lot and veer left on a trail that takes you to the north end of the canyon. The more southern portions of the canyon can be reached via a series of trails that skirt the top of the canyon heading west, then shoot down between rock outcroppings.

Addendum: this area can be challenging to locate without someone to introduce you to the area.

Per Benjamn P: the old Oceanic Wall hiking trail gpx is incorrect.

203 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Dream Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 429 ● Wrinkles in Time Trad 2 pitches Dream Dome
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 140 ● Strange Cargo Sport 3 pitches Lost Angel
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 270 ● In Your Dreams Sport Oceanic Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 90 ● Tales of Power Sport 2 pitches Dream Dome
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 111 ● Divination Sport 3 pitches Lost Angel
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 154 ● Hunky Monkey Sport 4 pitches Lost Angel
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 17 ● Jet Stream Trad Midnight Rock
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 171 ● The Deep Sport Oceanic Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 137 ● Leviathan Sport 2 pitches Oceanic Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 73 ● Creature from the Black Lagoon Sport Oceanic Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 197 ● Sargasso Sea Sport Oceanic Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 80 ● Earth Voyage Sport 4 pitches Lost Angel
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 111 ● Archangel Sport 2 pitches Lost Angel
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A5+ 20 ● Red Limit Sport, Aid Dream Dome
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a 16 ● China Doll (P1-2, free) Trad, Sport 2 pitches Lost Angel