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Elevation: 6,331 ft 1,930 m
GPS: 42.12418, -113.67139
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 244,511 total · 1,061/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Dec 20, 2005 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the largest rock formation in the park at about 300 ft tall. There are a number of good multi-pitch climbs on the rock. This is the first area to be developed at Castle Rocks, and there are about 100 routes on and around this main formation. The majority of the routes are in the 5.7-5.10 range due to the low angle nature of the rock.

The Castle Rocks Sector is not the largest area, however it is the most concentrated. Home to over 125 routes and growing, this sector is the closest and most obvious. Sport routes, trad routes, and multi-pitch routes as long as 300 feet long will be found, as are most of the classics climbs.

A majority of the lines here are sport, while others are mixed. There are a number of pure cracks of great quality, but don't expect to come here for those specifically.

Nearly all routes I can remember have chain anchors. Most routes can be rappelled with one rope, but like the City of Rocks, its best to carry a 70 meter rope, although it is not mandatory.

Approach time is about 5-10 minutes up a well-traveled trail/double track.

Getting There Suggest change

This formation is obvious from the parking lot and is about a third of a mile west of the parking lot. There are number of well marked trails to access the different areas, so please stay on the trails and buy a guidebook from one of the local shops in Almo. There are currently 2-3 different guidebooks for the area.

161 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 275
Big Time
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 106
Fruit Pie
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 172
Zinger
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 103
Between Heaven and Earth
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 131
Shock and Awe
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 91
Jug-A-Lug
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 83
Crimson Arete
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 141
Red Rib
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 110
Twinkie
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 100
Honeymoon in Almo
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Country Western Ballad
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Southern Rock Opera
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Excalibur
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 5
No Shame
TR
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Squench
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Big Time Castle Rock - S Face
 275
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
Fruit Pie Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 106
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Zinger Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 172
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Between Heaven and Earth Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 103
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Shock and Awe W Buttress - South
 131
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jug-A-Lug Crack House
 91
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Crimson Arete Castle Rock - E Face
 83
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Red Rib Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 141
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Twinkie Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 110
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Honeymoon in Almo Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 100
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Country Western Ballad Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Southern Rock Opera Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Excalibur W Side - Excalibur Area
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
No Shame Cryin Shame Boulder
 5
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a TR
Squench W Buttress - South
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rocks »

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