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Great White Icicle Area Rock Climbing
Routes in Great White Icicle Area
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Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Grinning Gibbons T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bolted Ape S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Master Scriptorian T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Great White Icicle, The WI3 |
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Monkey Business S M8 |
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Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Monkey Talk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Low Friction Status S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lasso Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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A Chorus Line T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Genuflect Falls WI3+ R |
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| GPS: |
40.56883, -111.74168 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 44,542 total · 183/month |
| Shared By: | Bobby Hanson on Apr 22, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Home to the popular ice climb, The Great White Icicle, the area offers some decent rock routes as well. Mostly slab climbing with rock very similar in texture to Pentapitch.
Getting There
Climbers Accessing the Great White IcicleRecent avalanche damage (2019) has completely erased the trail to this area. Expect some slogging through the debris with many downed trees and loose boulders. Aim for climber's right of the falls.
For years ice and rock climbers have accessed the Great White Icicle and other south side areas by using the bridge and parking at the site of a small hydro-electric plant a couple of miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. In 2010 the current owner, Cottonwood Hydro, was forced to remove the bridge during a flood event that threatened the plant. Since then Cottonwood Hydro has posted no trespassing and no parking signs to protect the plant operations and access to their private property.
As a responsible climber, you can help improve the SLCAs relationship with Cottonwood Hydro. Do not trespass or block the area and avoid the no parking and hydro hazard areas. Keep off the pipe, intake structures, and dam at all times!
During times of low water access the south side of the creek by using the recommended cross- country route shown in the map.
During times of high water use one of the bridges along the Little Cottonwood Trail provided by Cottonwood Hydro in partnership with the USFS. Bridges are located approximately ½ mile upstream or ¾ mile downstream of this location. When possible carpool from a Park and Ride to conserve the limited, available parking. Thanks for your cooperation!
For years ice and rock climbers have accessed the Great White Icicle and other south side areas by using the bridge and parking at the site of a small hydro-electric plant a couple of miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. In 2010 the current owner, Cottonwood Hydro, was forced to remove the bridge during a flood event that threatened the plant. Since then Cottonwood Hydro has posted no trespassing and no parking signs to protect the plant operations and access to their private property.
As a responsible climber, you can help improve the SLCAs relationship with Cottonwood Hydro. Do not trespass or block the area and avoid the no parking and hydro hazard areas. Keep off the pipe, intake structures, and dam at all times!
During times of low water access the south side of the creek by using the recommended cross- country route shown in the map.
During times of high water use one of the bridges along the Little Cottonwood Trail provided by Cottonwood Hydro in partnership with the USFS. Bridges are located approximately ½ mile upstream or ¾ mile downstream of this location. When possible carpool from a Park and Ride to conserve the limited, available parking. Thanks for your cooperation!
Classic Climbing Routes at Great White Icicle Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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