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Elevation: 7,751 ft 2,363 m
GPS: 39.56569, -111.69639
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 119,845 total · 486/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Aug 18, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Jim Clarke, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

Description Suggest change

Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.

Getting There Suggest change

Hike up the right fork trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Trail entrance is across from campsite #16. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.

41 Total Climbs

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Location: The Pipe Dream Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Pipe Dream

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 125
Excavation
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 194
Dry Spunk
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 155
Dry Times
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 143
Orgasmo
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 121
Deliverance
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 90
Sprout
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 34
La Confianza
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 15
Rodeo Clown
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 16
Toxic Turkey
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 13
The Great Feast
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 7
Don't Mess With Texas
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 8
Wyoming Sheep Shagger
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 7
Millennium
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 5
Whole Shot
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 4
PipeDream
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Excavation
 125
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Dry Spunk
 194
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Dry Times
 155
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Orgasmo
 143
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Deliverance
 121
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Sprout
 90
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
La Confianza
 34
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Rodeo Clown
 15
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Toxic Turkey
 16
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
The Great Feast
 13
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Don't Mess With Texas
 7
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Wyoming Sheep Shagger
 8
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Millennium
 7
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Whole Shot
 5
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
PipeDream
 4
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Pipe Dream »

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